Z'bad

Z'bad, Zebad or Zubad, Zabād, Sinnawr al-Zabād simply means civet in Arabic, and is the origin of this word in Western world (Civet, civette, zibet and zibetum are some of its Western spellings). In the Arab world, civet paste is still used today in its raw form, as an aphrodisiac, and a hair grooming product: to smooth and scent eyebrows, moustache and beard, as well as treatment for hair loss and various other folkloric uses. If you understand Arabic, this video explains how it is used also. But Z'bad is also a perfume type, just as "White Musk" is a type of fragrance nowadays, and not just one literal ingredient. Although civet is the key ingredient that gives it its character, it is not the only one. Z'bad was used to protect against the evil eye, so it is a magical concoction as well as an aphrodisiac.

I first heard about Z'bad from Dan Riegler (Apothecary's Garden), who have found it in an old perfumery and apothecary in the midst of a Souk in Yemen. I was both intrigued and hesitant about purchasing it because it was a bit unclear to me at the time what this was - aged civet paste or an authentic Yemeni perfume, and since I don't use the former in my creations, it seemed superfluous to make such a purchase.

When I stumbled upon this article about The Painted House and heard from Ayelet Bar-Meir that the Yemeni artist used this mysterious perfume and that it was a strong memory she left with her children and grand children, I knew I had to try it for myself. Dan has kindly gifted me with two jars, and I'm so thankful he did. The Z'bad that Dan found in Yemen is indeed not just aged civet but a full perfume, a solid paste of civet mingled with camphor, spices and that has aged and mellowed for decades.

In Dan's own words, "Z'bad is a potent traditional Yemenite Civet based perfume mix, used for hundreds of years among the Yemenite Jews, but abandoned by younger generations, Z'bad, or Zabad, doubled as a prophylactic against the evil eye, which may also be a contributing factor to its decline in popularity(...)". Which fits right in with what I read about Afia's use of it in that article, and what Ayelet has spoken about.

I received the Z'bad while I was still in Canada, and made great efforts (over the course of four weeks!), to not open the jar till I entered The Painted House. I wanted to have a very specific place association and emotional memory with it. And trying it on first at the house of a woman who lived with similar fragrances and put great care to incorporate them into her daily rituals. It was at first surprisingly fresh, and surprisingly familiar: a burst of camphor and spearmint emerges from the jar as I first uncorked it and smeared some of the dense, rich salve onto the back of my hand.  It had strong banknotes of balsams and civet, but nevertheless there was a surprisingly green, minty, camphoreous freshness to it for the first few minutes. It was a tad medicinal, but not as medicinal as Tiger Balm (which is what the uninitiated nose might dismiss it as at first sniff). There are also earthy qualities, almost musty-dusty, which makes me wonder if there isn't some patchouli oil in there as well, or more likely - a kind of infusion of the dried leaves. I have very little knowledge of how these traditional perfumes I made, but from the little I know about Arab aesthetics, just as the oud oil is used as the "base oil" for other ingredients, in this case it is not unlikely that the civet paste was infused with several resins, spices and herbs to create this rich perfume preparation. I'm also smelling cedar, which gives it a rather pervasive dryness in the opening hour of so on the skin. Perhaps even a hint of myrrh or opoponax. There are no flowers to be smelled in this, but it is unnecessary. There is so much indole in the civet that it really blooms on the skin, and develops into this luscious, purring animalic-balsamic presence for hours on end afterwards. It is not overmpoering at all, but simply becomes part of my skin.



In both its scent and consistency, Z'bad reminds me a lot of vintage Youth Dew solid perfume in a vintage necklace I have that is probably not that different in age. It seems like Z'bad was the inspiration for Youth Dew, as well as its predecessor Tabu. Both rely heavily on civet, and have a distinctively heavy-sweet-cloying-exotic character that is heavily inspired by the Orient. To Westerners that never smelled the original, these two must have been earth-shuddering at the time, and immensely original. And they are in their own rights. But they wouldn't be around without this Arabian unguent.

Likewise, the evocative packaging and thicker liquid in the Western Orientals - Tabu, Youth Dew, Opium, Obsession and Shalimar - is created in such way as to recreate the ritual of applying a thick paste to the eyebrows, nape of the neck and perhaps other unmentionable strategic spots. The richness of materials create a heavy veil of scent that is highly intimate, personal and also precious. It does not need to be applied in great quantity, and ironically - the economy in which is can be used is part of its luxury and appeal.

New Perfume: < 3

Valentine's Day is just around the corner, and while for some this is a time for celebration, for others it's a sad time of mourning lost loves or feeling unloved altogether. In this spirit, I bring to you my new perfume < 3.

Night was not only equal to the day but also just as warm. Breeze from distant countries brought in the scent of citrus orchards. It was as if we were walking in a rich neighbourhood in west Amman. Or maybe it was the reconstructed remnant of a vintage orchard, blocked in with sandstone and lit strategically with theatre lights, in Old Jaffa.

We walked from the top of the hill to the sea and savoured the salted air. We buried our faces in the white blooming foliage of clematis armandii, covering us in a shower of meteorites and drowning our nostrils in their dreamy orange blossom scent.

Up the hill again, and in the garden. We sat under the blossoming cherry trees, observing their white petals fall one by one into the black pond. Just as our present moments are disappearing into the bleak past. We will never forget that night. It was equal to the day. Only that after that, the days will begin to lengthen, and we will have to wake up from this dream. Things will become more clear. More real. More light. Lightheaded from gin and tonic, washed down with salty tears of grateful appreciation muddled by the silent anger and deep sadness that is the inevitable realization that what is never will be again.

The new perfume is a blank slate in the shape of a hand-cut black heart upon which you write and re-write your lovers of the past, present and future.

Top notes: Cardamom, Peppermint
Heart notes: Clematis Accord
Base notes: Incense, Musk 

Fragrance Families: Floral, Floriental

Looking for a more romantic and less melancholy scents for Valentine's day? Remember that the secret of perfume's seductive power is its ability to make the person who wears it feel good about themselves. Feeling confident brings out the best in you and attracts the right lover.
Not sure which perfume makes you feel confident? Try our complementary fragrance consultations to help you pick the right scent for you. Our 2018 edition of the traditional Aphrodisiac Guide 2018 goes as follows...

Carob Blossoms

There are two carob trees by my house, a long-married couple, male and female, probably centennials. The male lives right beside my porch and dining room windows. I built the house right next to it on purpose: It gives shade and privacy, and lowers the temperatures in the building  by almost 5 degrees. But nothing is for free in this world, as they say, and the price we pay comes when the carob trees are mating, trying to make little carob "beans", also known to some as St. John's Bread. Carobs are generally edible, but this female produces dry and bland fruit, which only grafting could fix.  


Carob buds, red and innocent, before the open and assault the senses with their pollen and perfume. As you can see, the tree doesn't waste any space and brings flowers from every inch of its body: branches large and small, and even the trunks shoot out little tine columns covered with sulfur-yellow pollen. The female flowers are scentless and just look like clusters of tiny green carobs...



The smell of the male flowers is a nostalgic memory from the many falls I spent as a child playing under these trees and resting in their shade. To me it's a basic childhood memory like glue, pencil shaving and your favourite ice cream bar. However, anyone who comes into contact with these trees after reaching sexual maturity, would find the aroma vulgar if not repulsive. This botanical replica of the juicy secretions of male and female copulating is bang-on. Except for one thing: this botanical orgasm will last for about a month.

P.s. There is a scientific explanation for the sexual smell of carob blossoms: They contain the polyamine Cadaverine,  which is also found in human semen (and cadavers...), which is produced by breaking down the amino acid Lysine. Of course the carob tree does that in order to attract insects that typically feed on cadavers.

This Wednesday: DIY Aphrodisiac Massage Oil Workshop with Ayala @ Giving Gifts

Treat your special someone and yourself to a custom-made aphrodisiac massage oil!

In this 2hrs workshop with master perfumer Ayala Moriel you will:
- Discover the world of natural aphrodisiac essential oils and botanical turn-ons
- Learn about the properties of sensual and nourishing plant-based massage oils
- Design your very own blend, with those special notes to inspire passion and stir up the senses!
- Take it home with you, and be ready to get pampered!

* Complementary refreshments of aphrodisiac teas & chocolates will be served.

About the instructor:
Master perfumer Ayala Moriel of Ayala Moriel Parfums has been creating seductive scents since 2001. She creates custom perfumes, body products, fragrant teas, fragrant chocolates and candles, and teaches DIY aromatic workshops.



Where: 
Giving Gifts & Co.
4570 Main @ 30th Avenue, Vancouver

When:
Wednesday, February 12th, 6:30-8:30pm 

How much:
$50 including all materials, equipment, packaging and the massage oil bottle you'll be taking home with you, of course!

RSVP:
Space is extremely limited!
Please register with Ayala Moriel Parfums via email or call/text (778) 863-0806. 

Rosewater Buttercream Cookies

Rosewater Buttercream, a photo by Ayala Moriel on Flickr.

With Valentine's Day around the corner, and the winter greyness in full swing - there is no better timing for something bright and pink and optimistic. Rosewater buttercream, anyone?

This recipe is an improvement on another one that I've tried from Canadian Living Magazine's special baking edition that came out in the fall, especially for the holiday season 2012. I love getting those special edition magazines: some of the recipes there I swear by and they have surprisingly original combinations, and are usually quite well-tested. This was an exception - whilte the buttercream frosting and the technique was fantastic; I was not at all happy with the dough. Contrasted with the soft, yielding texture of the buttercream filling - the dough must have a more flaky, absorbent consistency. Otherwise every bite will squish out the frosting before you can even get through the (rather thin, I must add) double cookie layers.

So I went off and decided to give you a tried and true cookie recipe instead, which I am sure will produce finer results: it's a classic pâte sucrée recipe, taken from Dorie Greenspan's wonderful Paris Sweets. The reason I'm telling you all this is not just because I want to give due credit to the origins of my new recipe; but also to let you in my recipe baking process. I often get complemented about my "creativity" in baking; where in fact - all I do is amalgamate components that I like from different recipes in my repertoire. It's true that I stop at nothing when it comes to flavour combinations, and these can be rather daring. But as far as consistencies go, the science of baking is something I consider myself to be a complete novice at. I keep making mistakes, learning from them, and keep trying adventurous new recipes to understand who all of this works. So don't be afraid of experimenting in the oven - baking, just like cooking - can be creative and rewarding. And once you come up with your own flavour, it's already your recipe, really. You own it - and best of all: you can share the treats with friends, family and colleagues. And that's more than half of the fun.  


For the rose-almond cookie dough:
1-1/4 sticks unsalted butter, at room temperature
3/4 cup icing sugar
1/2 cup (50gr) ground blanched almonds
1/2 tsp almond extract
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1 large egg
3 drops rose absolute (optional)
1-3/4 cups unbleached white wheat flour
2 Tbs rosewater, for brushing the cut cookies1/2 cup Coarse sugar, for decorating

- In a food processor or standup mixer, beat the butter, salt and sugar together until smooth and creamy.
- Beat in the eggs, vanilla and almond extracts, and rose absolute (if using).
- Add the blanched almonds. Scrape the sides of the bowl if necessary.
- Add the flour and continue beating/blending just until the dough forms moist-looking chunks and can form a ball. Avoid overworking this dough as it will affect the crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth texture!
- Divide the dough into 2 balls, and roll each into a flat disk.
- Cover in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 4 hours or up to 2 days.
- When ready cut and bake the cookies, roll each disk into 5mm/1/4", between 2 layers of wax paper.
- Chill the dough for 10-20 minutes if it has become too soft and difficult to work with.
- Use heart shaped cookie cutters if you got them, a fluted round (as used for Linzer cookies), or any shape you like. Dip the cutter into flour to avoid the cut cookies from sticking to it.
- Preheat the oven to 350F.
- Refrigerate the cut cookies for 20 minutes.
- Brush (or spray) half of the cookies with rosewater, sprinkle with coarse sugar.  The other remaining half should be left alone as they are - they will be the base or bottom of the sandwiched cookies once you assemble them.
- Bake the cookies for 8-10 minutes, just until the edges are slightly golden.
- Place on a wired rack to dry.


For the Rosewater Butter Cream Filling:
1/3cup unsalted butter, softened
2 cups icing sugar
Pinch of salt (use Hawaiian Red or Pink Himalayan salt if you want to be really fussy!)
2 Tbs whipping cream
2 Tbs rosewater
2-4 drops of red food colouring (optional)

- Beat the butter, salt and icing sugar until completely combined.
- Stir in the whipping cream and rosewater, one tablespoon at a time, beating thoroughly between additions.
- Add the red colour and blend till it is evenly distributed and the frosting is tinted a light cheerful pink!


To assemble:
Pipe the butter cream frosting on the cookies that do not have the sugar decoration. You may use a spoon or a butter knife if you don't have a piping bag/syringe: you will need about 1 teaspoon per cookie - place filling in the centre of the cookie, and press the sugared cookie on top so that the filling reaches the sides of the sandwich.

Store in an airtight container until serving. You may store them in the fridge for up to 5 days. Just remember to bring them to room temperature before serving, for the best texture and flavour.

And - voila!
Your rosewater buttercream cookies are ready to enjoy!

Aphrodisiac Moroccan Afternoon Tea

Le premier verre est aussi amer que la vie,
le deuxième est aussi fort que l'amour,
le troisième est aussi doux que la mort.*

*Moroccan proverb, which translates loosely to:
The first glass is as bitter as life,
the second glass is as strong as love,
the third glass is as gentle as death.

Photograph by Miriam Kleingeltink

Photograph by Miriam Kleingeltink

At long last - photographs and stories from our latest event titled "Light, Love… Action!"
This is my 3rd annual Valentine’s Day Aphrodisiac Tea Party - which not surprisingly is always very popular and very special.

First thing - I would like to thank the wonderful friends that helped me put together this event: Miriam, Tamya and Shukoofeh for helping me prepare all the Moroccan sweets and the savoury mezze inspired tea sandwiches. Thank you to Nikki for helping me co-host the event and for her wonderful presentation about aphrodisiac candles (see more below). An extra special thank you goes to Miriam who went above and beyond - seamlessly helping me to host as well as photograph the event so those who couldn't make it can get some inspiration and food for thought!

Photograph by Miriam Kleingeltink

Photograph by Miriam Kleingeltink

Nikki will bought her aphrodisiac candles, including “Three Little Words” - a very special trio of romantic candles she created especially to put you in the mood!
"Afternoon Nap" with Black Pepper and Lavender
"Slow Dance" with Sandalwood, Clove, Patchouli
"Sweetheart" with Ylang Ylang, Geranium and Nutmeg

She shared the pure aphrodisiac essences that are used in her candles to demonstrate how they can be used to set the mood for romance. Lighting a candle is an act of inviting passion and romance into your life. It has such a beautiful soft ligth, and with a scented candle, you also get the health benefits of aromatherapy grade essences - purifying the air and also affecting the body, mind and soul in a positive way.
Nikki shared some surprising tips on burning soy wax candles, for example - light a candle before you enter the bedroom to make it smell nice, rather than keep it burning all night long. And also tips on how long a wick should be, how to trim them, and for how long it's recommended to burn each candle.



My presentation was about how the aphrodisiacs were incorporated in the menue (see below) and they actually "work". I demonstrated two scents for men (ArbitRary and Orcas) that contain aphrodisiacs, and two feminine perfumes (Immortelle l'Amour and Roses et Chocolat).
And here I am pouring a very special aphrodisiac that I designed especially for the party: a Darjeeling tea scented with mimosa & myrrh!

Photograph by Miriam Kleingeltink

MENUE:
The menu was Moroccan inspired – colourful, spicy and flavourful from one of the world’s most sophisticated cuisines!

We all enjoyed Moroccan mint tea drizzled with orange flower water and garnished with fresh sprigs of spearmint. The orange flower water is an old Moroccan tradition, but was a refreshing and new for everyone attending and I was thrilled how much they loved it!
We created an abundance of colourful finger foods and fragrant desserts that are a feast for all of the senses – and all spiked with nature’s best aphrodisiacs, such as cardamom,

Moroccan Mezze (Hors d’Oveurs):
- Pita wedges with roasted bell pepper hummus topped with spicy Moroccan carrot salad
- Roasted eggplants sandwiches with black cardamom & pomegranate (served on Lesley Stowe’s Raincoast Crisps)
- Cumin-scented beets with chevre & black olives (on slices of PureBread’s rosemary-lavender bread)

Scones:
Moroccan inspired scones flavoured with aniseed and malepi (black cherry pit - this is actually a Greek specialty spice but worked so well with the anise that I just had to include it in the menu).
We served them piping hot with clotted cream and real rose petal jam.

Petitfours & Desserts:
Masapan (Moroccan almond paste tartlets)
Stuffed Dates with Rosewater & Coconut
Gheriba (Rose Petal & Semolina shortbread cookies)
Ras El Hanout spiced brownies

There were also two types of handmade truffles for sale:
White Musk Truffles (white chocolate infused with precious ambrette seeds – a botanical musk)
Black Beauty truffles (infused with Lapsang Suchong & black cardamom and smoked salt)

Photograph by Miriam Kleingeltink

We also gave door prizes including some of our secret aphrodisiac recipes and raffle tickets for a romantic gift box of perfumes, candles and potions that Nikki & I prepared in heart-shaped cookie boxes.

And last but not least - some music from the party (we played mostly authentic Moroccan music, and also some other North African music, such as the wonderful Libyan musician Tinariwen).



This might be the first and the last tea party for 2012, but we'll look forward to hosting a tea party for next Valentine's Day!

Aphrodisiac of the Day: Ambrette Seed

Ambrette was discussed here before in other contexts, for example: in my article about vegetale musks, and how it was employed in my newest perfumed tea. Today I want to highlight its aphrodisiac qualities, and how you can use it creatively in your own kitchen (or the bedroom...).

Ambrette seed is the seeds of Abelmoschus moschatus - an evergreen shrub from the hibiscus family, with yellow flowers with purplish-pink centre. These little innocent looking seeds are the perfumer's best choice for replacing animal-musk, although admittedly, it's far more gentle, sublime and not as sharp as animal musk.

Ambrette seed has a subtle and sublime musky odour. It is warm, but not quite like what one would call "spicy" - if anything its complexity reminds me slightly of that of coriander seed, although it's not nearly as heady (coriander has citrus elements in its chemical makeup, due to molecules such as limonene; and also light woodsy floralcy from the linalol). Ambrette is also slightly floral (probably due to the farnesol content); but has a very distinct aroma of its own, hardly sharing anything with other fragrant plants I'm familiar with. Possessing wine-like, nutty and fruity aspects reminiscent of overripe fruit or even lychee (probably because of the isoambrettolide - a macrocyclic musk that has some "red fruit" or berry characteristics). It also has some palmitic acid (which gives it a "fatty" or "oily" aspect). But most importantly - it is very rich in ambrettolide, which smells like what we learned to identify as "white musk" - clean, sweet, slightly floral or even soapy, and with berry undertones as well.



Ambrette also has medicinal benefits as well: to ease indigestion, cramps and nervous dyspepsia, and also can be ground made into an emulsion with milk to treat itchy skin.

And of course - ambrette seed is considered an aphrodisiac, both as a perfume and incense material and also in its less known culinary uses. It is used as spice in the East, either on its own or within exotic spice blends such as Moroccan Ras El Hanout (which was originally an aphrodisiac spice blend, by the way, and often calls for animal ingredients such as Spanish Fly, ambergris or musk). Ambrette seeds are also used by Arabs to flavour coffee (much like they do with cardamom seeds). The tincture is used to flavour liquors and tobacco - although I doubt that either will do you much good as aphrodisiac agents!

For my 3rd annual aphrodisiac tea party in February 12th, 2012 I will be serving my guests ambrette seeds in the Ras El Hanout spice blend I'll create, and also will infuse them in chocolate ganache to create aphrodisiac white chocolate truffles. You may also want to think about infusing ambrette seed in warm milk alone or along with vanilla and orris - or add it to sahleb and warm puddings of that nature. They may also work wonders in semolina desserts (cookies, harissas, etc.) along with spices such as coriander, cardamom and rosewater - in which case you should grind them before use and add like you would any other spice.

It's very unlikely you will find ambrette seed in your local spice shop, so you will have to find it online. Look for shelled but whole, un-ground seeds, as the fatty and oily components inside the seeds can easily get rancid once exposed to the air, which will greatly affect the scent and aroma. It's the skin of the tiny seeds that possesses most of the aroma anyway, so grind just as much as you need for immediate use and store them whole in an airtight container and away from heat, light and moisture - where they will remain fragrant profile for years.

I adore ambrette seed as a perfume material and use it in countless of my perfumes, but most notably in Cabaret, Sahleb, Tamya, Espionage and Zangvil, where its subtle musky notes come through and greatly complement the floral, powdery and ambery notes. It's so delicate, and really brings out the best of florals. Together with the flower essences (i.e.: rose, orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose) it really transforms - similarly to ambergris - and opens up on on the skin to what is definitely what I would call an aphrodisiac.

Perfumes containing ambrette seeds calm the mind and make me feel connected to my own skin, and to me that's what aphrodisiacs should be all about. They don't necessarily need to transport you into a far away exotic land or make you feel like some mythological sex goddess or act as a non-stop viagra dispensing machine (not that one like that exists, last time I checked) - but silently turn a little key and make the necessary switch from the worries of everyday life into something more sensual and pleasing that allows for things to happen. I suspect the "trick" of ambrette seed is two-fold: the fact that it helps to ease stress and nervousness, and also its stark resemblance to human skin (it is, somewhat, reminiscent of the scent of a baby's head too!). So wear a perfume with an ambrette seed in its base, rather than a synthetic musk, and enjoy the subtle yet powerful action of true botanical aphrodisiac.

Aphro-tea-siacs in Fresh Cup Magazine Featuring Ayala Moriel's Aphrodisiac Tera Party

The April issue of Fresh Cup Magazine features an article titled APHRO-TEA-SIACS: Exploring the sexy side of infusions by Steven Krolak includes an extensive interview with me and Dawna (the wonderful lady who makes my tea line), about aphrodisiacs in perfume and tea, and my last Aphrodisiac Tea Party I hosted for my customers for Valentine's Day.
Click here to visit the online edition of the current issue (p. 46-51).

Aphrodisiac Tea Party + Contest and Giveaway

Here are some pics from the Aphrodisiac Tea Party yesterday, as promised. It was the most attended tea party in my history of tea party hosting; yet thankfully there was enough tea (and cups!) for everyone. Food seems to always be over abundant, but this time nothing was gone to waste...

The photo above is of aphrodisiacs stored in a Valentine cookie box, and these are the dry raw aromatics - ambrette seed, rose petals, tonka bean, costu root, ambergris, pink peppercorns and a nutmeg; we smelled the essential oils and absolutes as well; and we also smelled essences such as myrrh, jasmine, tuberose, East Indian sandalwood and labdanum.

Some interesting stats: we had a total of just over 30 guests; we brewed about 15 liters of tea, eaten 5 loaves of bread (made into delicious tea sandwiches), 19 cupcakes, 12 mini cheesecakes, 80 truffles or so, and an unknown number of cookies (still tons left, for the lucky studio guests in the next couple of weeks, and for myself!).


1st Tier:
Tomato-Basil open sandwiches (these were heart shaped!)
Wasabi-Cucumber tea sandwiches
Minted Radishes tea sandwiches
Egg sandwiches

2nd Tier: Scones, Cream & Jam
Heart-shaped whole wheat and rose bud scones
Concord grapes and blue cheese scones
Served with Devonshire cream and wild Rose-Petal jelly (Wild Westcoast Rainforest Products) and Lavender jelly (Preserved BC Sunshine)


3rd Tier: Small cakes and Petit-Fours
Blood-Orange Mini Cheescakes
Banana & nutmeg cupcakes with peanut butter icing or caramel sauce
Raspberry Brownies (recipe by Wendy Boys from Cocolico)

4th Tier: Cookies
Korova cookies
Ginger Ice-box Cookies
Lavender Shortbread

5th Tier: Truffles
Blood Truffles (70% dark chocolate with roses, chili and saffron)
White Potion Truffles (white chocolate with tuberose, almond and coconut)

Tea Selection:
Black Tea:
Roses et Chocolat (Ayala Moriel)
Earl Gray Cream (Herbal Republic)

Green Tea:
Charisma (Ayala Moriel)
Jasmine & Rose house blend

Caffeine-Free Brew:
Immortelle l’Amour (Ayala Moriel) – rooibos based
Aztec-inspired Spiced Hot Chocolate (Cocoa) - we actually never made this... There was not enough time to steam the milk!

Photo was taken by Laura Zerebeski's iPhone

And now to the contest: name at least 5 aphrodisiacs (actual ingredients, not menu items!!!) that we ate at the tea party and enter to win a mini of Roses et Chocolat parfum!
(draw on February 10th).

Ayala's Aphrodisiac Guide

Dear Fragrant Friends,

Sunrays have been gracing Vancouver in the past week, reminding me the possibilities of spring as the days grow longer. A season marked by its shameless display of sexuality by plants and animal alike – from birds mating and nesting to colourful flower beds and blooming trees. I really cannot wait for the cherry and almond blossoms to come out!

And so in some ways, the early spring holidays, such as Tu Bishvat (a Jewish holiday celebrated on February 9th this year) - otherwise know as the New Year of the Trees; and Valentine’s Day only 5 days later, both mark the awakening of the senses and renewal of life after the surviving the challenges of the dark season.

In this newsletter:

• Aphrodisiacs 101
  


• The Art of Olfactory Seduction


• Ayala's Aphrodisiac Guide
  


• Spicing it Up: Stimulating Notes


• Scents from the Boudoir: Sedative, Erogenous Notes


• Say it with Flowers: Narcotic Floral Bouquets


• Chemical Illusions and Secret Secretions
  
  
• Vote for Virgo Perfume on Etsy Storque


• Romantic Gift Ideas


• Chocolate Elixir & Truffles
  
  

Aphrodisiacs 101

"If there's bread there's love" by Noam Dehan

Since the beginning of time, perfumes and aromatics were used to seduce, empower and get us closer to God, ourselves and one another. The earliest perfumes were incense – burnt resins, woods and gums whose smoke was believed to carry one’s prayers to the gods, and also seduce one’s mind to focus on the inner self.

Aphrodisiacs have been mankind’s obsession, probably just as long – herbs, spices, fruit and animal body parts that were believed to awaken the passion and bring forth love. Aphrodisiacs can be beautiful luscious fruit like figs or bananas, rare flowers such as mandrake or orchid, exotic tree bark such as yohimbe, or in the oddest cases – rhinoceros horns and the tiger’s penile bone. In the modern Western world, aphrodisiacs are mostly replaced by supplements and prescription drugs that are quite readily available yet have none of the mystique of their former selves. Thankfully, for those of us still seeking mystery and excitement there is still perfume.

The Art of Olfactory Seduction

So what makes perfume so seductive and sensual?

Regardless if a perfume contains aphrodisiacs or not - it can give you something that no capsule or drug would: Perfume has the power to seduce the senses, lure us to love and set the mood for passion. Some of it is still a complete mystery (which makes it so much more fun and interesting) and some of it is can be explained by analyzing and understanding the type of stimulation different perfumes offer.

Part of why perfume is so seductive is because it makes the person who wears it feel good about themselves. Feeling confident usually attracts the opposite sex – perhaps even if the woman was unable to smell the scent, as a recent study shows.

This is why my answer to the famous question “what perfume will attract the opposite sex” is first and foremost – a perfume that attracts you! For that purpose, knowing yourself and what you like and dislike is key. Which is why I offer fragrance consultations as an integral part of my service to all of my customers. No matter where you or your loved one live– I am always here to help you find the perfect scent for you, one that would speak to your heart and seduce your senses. I will either help you pick a scent from my collection of 54 originally composed perfumes, hand-blended to perfection; or if you wish to embark on an even more adventurous journey – create a Signature Scent that is just for you – an unforgettable olfactory impression of you.

Ayala’s Aphrodisiac Guide

When we look at the aromatics that are considered aphrodisiacs in aromatherapy practice, and have been used for centuries by ancient traditions as well as in perfumery – they seem to be divided into four major categories: stimulants, erogenous/sedative scents, narcotic flowers, and those who mimic the human’s body odour or pheromones.

Of course, keep in mind that there are also personal differences – you may be more prone to react to certain aphrodisiacs than others. A scent that a former lover had worn may increase (or decrease, it all depends) desire when smelled again even when they are not around…

Spicing it Up: Stimulating Notes

Here is where you will find most of the spice oils. Creating the sensation of heat, the increase blood pressure and circulation is similar to sexual arousal. Spice oils have a definite character of their own, and spice up any perfume composition, quite literally. These include essential oils, CO2 and absolute extractions from the exotic yet familiar spices in our kitchen, such as:

* Black Pepper * Ginger * Cinnamon * Cardamom * Clove Buds * Nutmeg * Juniper Berry

Recommended spicy perfumes:

Wake up to smell the coffee and warm spices with Finjan; wrap yourself in a sexy woolen shawl with Ginger & Amber; and have a romantic cinnamon-waffles brunch with Immortlle l’Amour topped with maple syrup.

Some herbs also have a lively, spicy, pungent aroma with a similar effect, and these oils can be used similarly to spice-up and add a vibrant passion to a scent. These herbs are also known as anti-depressants and stimulants, which might explain a lot about their effect as aphrodisiacs:

* Spearmint * Peppermint * Rosemary * Basil

Enjoy a good dose of flirt with ArbitRary’s basil and lime combination; enjoy a sprig of rosemary on your Gaucho ride; and show off your Charisma with this sexy pairing of jasmine green tea, spearmint and bergamot.

Scents from the Boudoir: Sedative, Erogenous Notes

While the previous category was mostly of pungent, lively spices and herbs – oftentimes eroticism and sexual arousal needs a relaxing environment for the mind and the body for the passionate feeling to be awakened. Deep, sensual aromas such as resins, balsams and woods provide that type of stimulation. Cumin one of the notes that is the most similar to human sweat than any other that I know of. And frankincense and myrrh are more traditionally considered as sedatives in aromatherapy, which also might explain their traditional religious uses – as they soothe both physical and emotional pain and calm the mind. Labdanum (rockrose) is a mild aphrodisiac of a sweet, balsamic nature which is slightly reminiscent of feminine sexual secretions.

* Agarwood * Ambrette Seed * Atals Cedarwood * Costus * Cumin * Frankincense * Myrrh * Labdanum * Patchouli

Use Film Noir to deceivingly seduce your victim. It will even linger on your lover’s clothes if you sneak a scented Film Noir sachet into her lingerie drawer or his coat’s pocket.

Get dirty with Autumn’s sweaty sex notes of cumin and labdanum; and indulge yourself and your lover in Razala’s Arabian oud, ambergris and myrrh.

Say it with Flowers: Floral and Narcotic Notes

Flowers are the plants’ genitalia, and in their evolution have developed interesting interrelations with the animal kingdom to help them spread their genes. Flowers take on shapes and colours similar to those of insects and even aromas that would make them more attractive to the animals they rely on helping them pollinate and procreate. And it is therefore not surprising that flowers have been used to communicate emotions such as love and desire and been regarded to symbolize virtues such as beauty (red roses), purity (white roses or lilies), modesty (violet) or seduction (tuberose).

Most floral notes are rich with indole, a chemical that is actually found in human feces. It’s interesting how this note has both the power to repel and compel. An overdose of indole is definitely off-putting; but it is this very molecule that makes jasmine smell so attractive and sensual. Synthetic jasmine compounds that lack this element were found to be completely useless… Another narcotic floral is tuberose, a flower related to the narcissus whose odour intensifies at night time. It is so potent that in the olden days, virgin girls were forbidden from going through tuberose fields after sunset from fear that the flower’s power will overcome their modest virtues.

* Jasmine * Narcissus * Rose * Tuberose * Ylang Ylang * Orange Blossom

Get dreamy with White Potion’s creamy tuberose and matching candle, and venture on dangerous territories with Schizm’s explosion of white florals – tuberose, orange blossom and jasmine on a bed of fungi. For the jasmine lover there is nothing more poetic than Yasmin’s dawn-to-midnight bloom.

And for the die-hard rose lovers, we have several red rose bouquets to choose from:

Cabaret, with an edible explosion rosewater and coconut, amber and musk; Fête d'Hiver - an irresistible powdery rose and incense perfume; and Rosebud for the pure, fresh rose lover.

Song of Songs is perhaps the most poetic expression of love inspired by the Song of Solomon, pairing the qualities of ancient erogenous resins, saffron spice and several types of roses. And last but not least - Roses et Chocolat can be experienced simultaneously as a perfume, tea, candle and chili spiked chocolate truffles.

Not to mention this gorgeous, rosy vintage pillbox and rose-shaped poison ring to match your selection of rose perfume!

Chemical Illusions and Secret Secretions

And lastly, there are notes that either imitate or stimulate a sexual hormone or mimic a human sexual odour - and are often used in aromatherapy to balance these hormones. The most famous of these is Clary Sage, which acts as an estrogen balancer for women. Aniseed has a similar effect and has a mysterious aroma that can be very valuable in scented love potion. Licorice, which has a similar taste to that of aniseed, is said to stimulate both estrogen and testosterone.

The concept of odorous pheromones in humans still contains a large portion of an unproven myth. Pheromones are primarily used by insects – and in fact are usually scentless chemicals that activate a built-in reaction in those creatures. Insects communicate with pheromones to deliver information about food, danger and sexual cycles to other individuals within their species. Even though some odorous pheromones were discovered in humans, their role in the mating process haven’t been solidly proven yet. It is more likely that the scents that cause people to choose their mates are a result of metabolic processes and are indicative of genetic or immune-system related information that is specific to the individuals rather than have any connection to pheromones (which are a species-wide phenomenon and in humans have probably less impact on the mating process).

Animal secretion, which are usually used by the animal itself to attract the other sex within their species, have a similar effect on humans, even though in full concentration they usually smell repulsive. Musk are particularly associated with the natural sexual scent of men, and ambergris (as well as its vegetal perfumer’s imitation called “amber”) is considered more feminine. Sandalwood oil is unique for its chemical make up that is quite similar
to Androstenol – a pheromone found in men’s sweat. Generally speaking,
men’s natural body odour is more sharp and similar to musk, and women’s
body odour is sweeter and reminiscent of amber (as mentioned earlier – labdanum has a similar scent to some extent).

* Ambergris * Civet * Musk & musky notes * Sandalwood

Espionage is not only my favourite perfume, but also the one that most closely resembles the skin’s natural scent with its vegetal musks. It’s perfect especially if you want to sneak up on someone… A dab of Bon Zai will give you a sutble but lasting supply of sandalwood’s pheromones; Sahleb will give your skin an innocently sensual milkiness with its abanudance of ambrette and orris; and Razala has a love-potion reputation of capturing the hearts of men and women alike. animalic notes of ambergris and agarwood.

Vote for Virgo Perfume on Etsy Storque

Virgo Zodiac Perfume was nominated by Storque (Etsy's blog) as one of 60 best Season of Love Ladies items on Etsy.com.

Please vote here to show your support!

Romantic Gift Ideas

For more gift ideas for Valentine's Day, visit our Gifts Page or Ayala's Etsy Shop for rare finds (poison rings and other collectibles) and one-of-a-kind perfumes ready to be adopted as your signature scent!

And of course call us anytime so we can help you find the perfect gift and personalize it for your loved ones!

Chocolate Elixir & Truffles

Chocolate is a praised aphrodisiac that creates a feel-good reaction that is similar to that we feel when we fall in love and is just as addictive, as theobramine (one of the main active constituents in cocoa) simulates endorphins in the nervous system . Chocolate paired with chili peppers is a powerfully stimulating love potion and also tastes magnificently good! It’s easy to make your own spiced hot-chocolate, spiked with black chili peppers, vanilla and cinnamon (click here for a recipe).

Last declaration of love for the chocoholics among us: I will be making my infamous Blood Truffles (dark chocolate, rose, saffron and chili) and White Potion truffles (white chocolate, tuberose and coconut) this weekend, which can be delivered to your door within 2-3 business days - just in time for Valentine's Day!

Each truffle gift box contains 8 beautiful truffles and is tied with a ribbon ready to be received as a gift. If you prefer a different flavour, you can also order a full batch of 40 truffles from our original flavours or get one custom-made for you.

Next week: Last Minute Romantic Ideas and Menu for Valentine's Day

Love & Luck,

Ayala

Ayala Moriel Parfums
AyalaMoriel.com
My SmellyBlog: SmellyBlog.comTel.: (778) 863-0806
Address: 1230 Haro Street, Buzz #295,Vancouver, BC
Hours: Mon-Thu 8:00am-4:00pm; Sundays & evenings by appointment only
Address: PO Box 93589 Nelson Park, Vancouver, BC, V6E 4L7

Aphrodisiacs

Aphrodisiacs are named after Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love and passion, and are by definition substances that cause sexual arousal and desire. Many herbs, plants and fruits that are considered aphrodisiacs in the Western traditions, are also alluded to Venus or Aphrodite (both the goddess and the planet), i.e.: fig, myrtle, rose, violet, etc.

Certain foods and beverages that enhance our overall well being (i.e.: supplementing certain vitamins, proteins and minerals that are essential for the reproductive system). Drugs and supplements can also intervene with the hormonal cycles that promote sexual desire. And last but not least – scents can trigger the feelings and mood of desire and attraction.

Foods, plants, herbs and animal-parts that were considered aphrodisiacs were often chosen because of their shape – i.e.: the phallic shape of bananas, cucumbers and rhinoceros horns; the vulva shape of figs and oysters. But there is sometimes also a biochemical reason behind it, when the food in question has certain minerals or vitamins that are particularly beneficial for the reproductive system.

Chocolate, for instance, is a valuable aphrodisiac as it activates endorphins in the nervous system, creating a good feeling that is similar to that we feel when we fall in love. Chocolates paired with chili peppers a stimulating love potion and also tastes magnificently good! Try to make your own hot-chocolate, spiked with black chili peppers, and prove me wrong. This is one of my favourite drinks ever (a recipe will follow).

When we look at the aromatics that are considered aphrodisiacs in aromatherapy practice, and have been used for centuries by ancient traditions as well as in perfumery – they seem to be divided into four major categories:

Stimulants
Here is where you will find most of the spice oils. Creating the sensation of heat, the increase blood pressure and circulation – which is not unlike sexual arousal. Spice oils have a definite character of their own, and spice up any perfume composition, quite literally. These include essential oils, CO2 extractions, and absolutes extracted form the familiar spices in our kitchen, such as (when you click on the links, it will lead you to the building block database on my website, including all the perfumes from my collection that significantly features that note):

• Black Pepper
• Ginger
• Cinnamon
• Cardamom
  
• Clove
  
• Nutmeg
  
• Juniper
  

Some herbs also have a lively, spicy, pungent aroma with a similar effect, and these oils can be used similarly to spice-up and add a vibrant passion to a scent. These herbs are also known as anti-depressants and stimulants, which might explain a lot about their effect as aphrodisiacs:

• Spearmint
• Peppermint
• Rosemary
• Basil

Sedative, Erogenous Scents
While the previous category was mostly of pungent, lively spices and herbs – oftentimes eroticism and sexual arousal needs a relaxing environment for the mind and the body for the passionate feeling to be awakened. Deep, sensual aromas such as resins, balsams and woods provide that type of stimulation. Also, animal secretion (often used by the animal itself to attract the other sex), have a similar effect. Some of these notes have a certain affiliation with the natural sexual scent of men or women.

• Patchouli
• Ambrette Seed
  
• Ambergris
• Civet
• Musk
• Costus
• Sandalwood - this oil is unique for its chemical make up that is quite similar to certain molecules found in men’s sweat.
• Labdanum - a mild aphrodisiac of a sweet, balsamic nature which is slightly reminiscent of feminine sexual secretions.
• Atals Cedarwood
• Frankincense and Myrrh - more traditionally considered as a sedative in aromatherapy, which aso might explain their traditional religious uses – as they both calm the mind.
• Cumin - one of the notes that is the most similar to human sweat than any other that I know of.

Floral and Narcotic Notes
Most floral notes are rich with indole, a chemical that is found in human feces. It’s interesting how this note has both the power to repel and compel. An overdose of indole is definitely off-putting; but it is the note that makes jasmine smell so attractive and sensual. Synthetic jasmine compounds that lack this element were found to be completely useless…

• Jasmine
• Narcissus
• Rose
• Ylang Ylang
• Orange Blossom

And lastly, there are notes that either stimulates or imitate a sexual hormone and are often used in aromatherapy to balance these hormones. The most famous of these is Clary Sage, which acts as an estrogen balancer for women. But Aniseed has a similar effect and has a mysterious aroma that can be very valuable in scented love potion. Licorice, which has a similar scent, is said to stimulate both estrogen and testosterone.

Of course, there are also personal differences – you may be more prone to react to certain aphrodisiacs than others. A scent that a former lover had worn may increase (or decrease, it all depends) desire when smelled again out of context…

The following is a list of aromatic aphrodisiacs and perfumes that use a respectable amount of them:

Ambrette Seed - Ce Soir ou Jamais, Timepe Passate, Ambrette 9
Aniseed - l'Heure Bleue, Apres l'Ondee, Lolita Lempicka
Basil - Eau Sauvage, Le Parfum de Therese, Diorella
Black Pepper - Poivre, Parfum Sacre, Let Me Play the Lion, Poivre Samarkand
Borneol - Shiso (Aftelier)
Cardamom - Vintage Gardenia, Ormonde, Citron Citron
Cassie - Un Fleur de Cassie, Farnesiana
Cedarwood Atlas - Feminite du Bois
Cinnamon - Musc Ravageur, L de Lolita Lempicka, Noir Epices
Clove - Asja, Fleur de Shanghai, Opium, Aqaba
Coriander - Coriandre
Cumin - Femme (the reformulated EDT and EDP)
Galbanum - No. 19, Incensei (Lorenzo Villorsei), Private Collection, Vent Vert, Chamade, Yohji
Gardenia - Vintage Gardenia, Gardenia Passion, Chanel's Gardenia
Ginger - Ginger Essence (Origins)
Jasmine - Samsara, Le Jasmin
Juniper - Coriolan, Terre de Bois, Democracry
Labdanum - Incensi (Lorenzo Villoresi)
Mint & Peppermint - Herba Fresca, Un Air de Samsara
Myrtle - Gem (Van Cleef & Arpels), Emporio Armani Night for Her
Narcissus - Vol de Nuit, Narcisse Noir
Neroli - 4711, Guerlain's Eau de Coq, Eau de Cologne Imperiale, Vetiver
Nutmeg - Caron's Poivre, Piper Nigrum & Spezie (Villoresi)
Orange Blossom - Fleurs d'Oranger, Orange Blossom Cologne, Orchid
Patchouli - Youth Dew, Borneo 1834, Patchouli Antique (Les Nereides), Patchouli Patch
Sage - Miss Dior, Aromatics Elixir, Vol de Nuit, Vent Vert
Rose - Parfum Sacre, Lipstick Rose, Bvlgari pour Femme, N'aimez Que Mois, Nuit de Noel
Rosewood - Jicky, Hiris
Rosemary - Grapefruit Cologne
Clary Sage - Pour Un Homme, Antaeus, Parfum de Luxe, Ma Griffe
Sandalwood - Samsara, Tam Dao
Ylang Ylang - Mahora, Ylang & Vanille, Chamade


*Image of figs courtesy of lemon_farmer