Artemisia: Plant of Many Moons

“After the first glass you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world.” (Oscar Wilde about "The Green Fairy" AKA Absinthe)

Artemisia is a genus of hundreds of species of plants from the compositeae (AKA asteraceae) family. It derives its name from Artemis, the Greek Goddess of the hunt, the woodlands and the moon. In folk medicine, it is considered a feminine plant, with protective powers to guard over witch's gardens, and healing properties especially in relation to the uterus. Hence the connection to Artemis: among the many duties of the virgin Goddess was to assist women in childbirth, and also she is considered the bringer of women ailment and also the one who heals from them.

Overwhelmingly bitter, artemisia is mentioned in the Bible seven times, as a symbol for extreme bitterness and suffering. Artemisia is used to flavour the notorious (and for the longest time, forbidden) Absinthe: due to suspicions about the thujone content being responsible for neurotoxicity and hallucinogenic effects, it was banned in many countries from around 1912-2007 (each country has its own strange relationship with this spirit, and all fingers pointed the blame on the flavouring plant, rather than the unusually high alcohol content, around 70%) . In those who do produce it, the level of artemisia is still often strictly controlled and regulated, despite the fact that scientific data shows that Artemisia absthinthum does not have a dangerous or toxic level of thujone.
Like most members of the compositeae family, it has an intensity that is almost cloying (compare to other species, such as Artemisia dracunculus, AKA tarragon; Artemisia pallens, AKA Davana, immortelle/helicrysum, marigold/tagetes and chamomile) has an intense, cloying medicinal aroma that is overwhelming in large quantities. 

Several closely related species such as A. alba, A. vulgaris, A. absinthium, A. arborescens all have the characteristic bitter flavour and intense aroma, silvery fronds and similar uses. Mugwort or Armoise, which is really the French word for Artemisia - both usually refer to Artemisia vulgaris.  Artemisias have a potent, herbaceous and bitter presence. In very minute quantities, it can have a surprising effect in perfumes, especially when paired with very sweet florals and sweet balsamic bases. Its use in perfume is mainly in Fougère compositions, where it works beautifully with the lavender, oakmoss and coumarin, adding another layer of bitter herbaceous quality.

Artemisia in Magic and Folk Medicine:

Wormwood (Artemisia arborescens) is one of the important monastery herbs, and is found wild in Israel near ancient Crusaders' forts, i.e. the Monforte (a Hospiteral fort by Kziv creek in Israel). Therefore it is believed that the crusaders brought it with them to plant in their own "monastery gardens" by these fortresses. Curiously, it is now one of the fragrant herbs planted in Muslim cemeteries, because it is believed that a good scent would be pleasing to the angels that judge the souls of the deceased.

Artemisia herb-alba is native to the Negev in Israel, and the bedouins in the desert used it as a general antiseptic, vermifuge, and antispasmodic. Also, it was used to treat diabetics, because its intense bitterness was believed to balance the excess of sugar and stimulate the liver and pancreas (much like other bitter herbs, such as germander, sage, etc.).

Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris), AKA cronewort is a nerve tonic and a digestive tonic (stimulated bile production), increases menstrual bleeding, and to deal with pulmonary diseases and disturbances.

Mugwort is regarded as a plant with protective powers, and was planted in witch's gardens to guard them - as well as to announce them as medicine women and midwives - either as a plant in the garden, or in a planted pot or even painting on the door of urban witches. Mugwort and lavender are used together in dream pillows to balance their opposing actions of alertness/relaxation. This particular plant has broader leaves that are green on top and have a silvery underside (not all silver like the wormwood or absinthe plants). This silveriness alludes to the connection to the moon, and also wisdom of the crone.

Coastal mugwort (Artemisia suksdorfii) and Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata) are used by First Nations in British Columbia (and the West Coast in general) to cleanse and purify the space in smudging ceremonies. It is interesting to note that cedar leaf, which has a very high thujone content, is used in the same manner. It was used as a prevent infections in wounds, for athlete's foot, as a headache remedy, and to stop internal bleeding. A. tridentata has most camphor, terpionoids and tannins, and its smoke was used to tan hides by the Okanagan's first nations people. Another type of mugwort, Coastal Sagebrush, AKA California Sagebrush (A. californica), is used in very similar ways to mugwort (A. vulgaris), to treat respiratory complaints (including coughs, colds and asthma), for pain relief (sprains, reumatism, muscle pain and more), to ease menstrual cramps, and assist during child birth. Its pain relief properties are powerful - applied as a liniment, it is much more effective and safer than opioid painkillers, and can even relief the intense pain from broken bones. 

Chinese medicine uses Moxibustion during acupuncture treatment, in which the practitioner would burn A. moxa as well as A. argyi on top of the needles which warms them up, and is supposed to activate the qi and strengthen the body. It is considered to help improve blood supply to the pelvic area, and also promote fertility. Chinese mugwort (A. argyi) is used by traditional Chinese medicine doctors mostly to treat women - to stop bleeding during mensuration, pregnagney or postpartum; but also to promote mensuration (many types of artemisias are used as emmenagogues). The essential oil is used to treat asthma, coughs and other respiratory issues via spraying at the back of the throat. The essential oil was proven to have antiseptic properties against several bacteria. 

A. apiaceae is another species that grows in China and when dried is used to treat vertigo, cold sweats and high fever. The flowers are used for treating headaches and for joint pain relief.

In Japan, yomogi heating pads filled with Japanese mugwort are used to keep the crotch area warm and cozy (I'm still trying to figure out when would that be actually comfortable), and yomogi water bottles are used for warming the pelvis in general and ease pelvic pain.  

Artemisia in Medicine:

The two main species that have known in the West for their medicinal value are the A. herba-alba (native to North Africa, and also grows wild in the deserts of Israel) and A. arborescens (also grows wild in Israel). Their high santonin content makes them especially effective against intestinal worms. They are also used to treat other digestive complaints such as stomach ache and nauseae, as well as colds, coughs, etc. 

Artemisia arborescens (Sheeba in Arabic) is native to the Mediterranean region and is enjoyed with black tea, especially in the wintertime, throughout North Africa and in Israel. derives its synonym wormwood from its ability to chase away worms from the digestive system. 

A. absinthium is a European artemisia, used in folk medicine to strengthen the body, ease digestion, reduce fever and remove intestinal worms. 

A. annua contains artemisinin, is the current most effective drug to treat Plasmodium falciparum malaria. 

A. capillaris has sedative-hypnotic effects, some say as strong as that of cannabis. Newer discoveries regarding artemisia show that thujone affects GABA levels and uptake in the brain, and acts very much like THC in cannabis does. 

Artemisia in Food and Flavour:

Artemisia has a strong medicinal flavour, and is mostly drank as a medicinal or warming and energizing winter tea in North Africa and among the Moroccan Jews in Israel. It is also drank as a beneficial tea with the name Yomogi and Ssuk in Japan and Korea respectively.
Kusa mochi (literally means "grass mochi") is a seasonal Japanese pastry for spring, which is flavoured with mugwort (it is softened with baking soda to remove some of the bitterness). Yomogi mochi is a sweet rice pastry flavoured with mugwort and filled with sweet red bean paste. Another type of Japanese pastry featuring mugwort is Hanami Dango, a trio of white, pink and green balls of mochiko served on a sewer, which symbolize the cherry blossom in its green leaf, bud and flower state.
Spirits and Liquors:
Artemisia absthuinthium was used to spice mead in Medieval times. In 18th Centruy England, it was used to make beer much like hops (whose bitterness - or more accurately, the chemicals that are responsible for it - is effective in preventing spoilage of the barley during the fermentation process.

Artemisia is used to flavour various spirits and wines, chief among them being bitters, in which it takes the role of a battering agent; in the bitter liquor pelinkovac (from former Yugoslavia); and is a key ingredient in two important and equally famous alcoholic beverages, which both were used originally for medicinal purposes: absinthe and vermouth. Artemisia absinthium in combination with fennel and aniseed, is used to flavour the green-coloured Absinthe spirit, giving it a distinctive anise flavour. Other elements, such as melissa (lemon balm), angelica, peppermint, coriander, veronica or star anise may also be used. Absinthe is traditionally served diluted with water, which is poured over a sugar cube through an ornate spoon. Once diluted, it takes on a milky appearance (due to the high content of essential oils within the alcohol). Sazerac, New Orleans' famous whiskey cocktail, is delicately flavoured with absinthe, by swishing or spraying the glass with the spirit before serving. I wonder if we'd need to wait a 100 years for the draconian restrictions on oak moss to lift.

Turns out that the dangerous reputation regarding absinthe (hallucinations, violence and seizures) is mostly a myth - and that although thujone can be a neurotoxin in high quantities, none of the absinthe of the past nor present presents such a threat, and the negative effects of "absinthism" are in fact to blame on alcoholism: absinthe was traditionally a very high in alcohol content (68-72%); and unfortunately, not infrequently it as made with poor alcohol contains the toxic methanol, and at times even with a toxic green dye. 

Vermouth began as a German wormwood wine Wermut is German for wormwood, and the word got bastardized as it travelled form Germany to Italy and from there to the rest of Europe and eventually the UK. Aside from wormwood, vermouths may be flavoured with herbs such as marjoram and hyssop, spices such as cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, coriander and ginger; as well as with citrus peel, chamomile, and with juniper and quinine.

Artemisia in Perfumery:
Artemisia herba-alba essential oil is green in colour, and I have not had the honour to smell it in person. Artemisia vulgaris essential oil is a clear yellow mobile liquid, and has an herbaceous, bitter, intense, offensive and aggressive even scent, reminiscent of cedar-leaf and sage. It is also lightly berry-like and musky with woody undertones. Hints of marigold and chamomile undertones as well. Waxy like candle and becomes more sweet and honeyed, floral after a while. Hints of peach stone. Artemisia's green, fresh, herbaceous qualities make it the perfect conspirator in Fougère and Chypre compositions, as well as foresty fragrances. Last but not least - tobacco and leather fragrances, to which it contributes an almost palpable bitterness that creates an illusion of chewing tobacco. It also finds its way into soap fragrances and is also a popular scent for Japanese bath salts and an addition to hot springs "spa". The key to using it is creativity and imagination: Do not use it as a main theme but in combination with other notes, where it will act as an accessory note to create a surprising effect.

I have tinctured fresh leaves of Artemisia arborescens and the result is a very clean, fresh and green aroma which I am now curious to work with both as a flavouring agent (in bitters) and in fragrance compositions.

Here is a very partial list of perfumes that contain artemisia/absinthe:
Bandit
Biche Dans l'Absinthe 

Bowling Green
Chrysalis
Coriolan
Cuir de Russie
Derby
Devin
Douce Amère
Feuilles de Tabac
Gaucho
Kouros

Polo

Without Words

Wrappings
Yatagan
Yerbamate

Interview on NaturalPerfumery.ru

I'm thrilled that there is an English version for the interview I gave Anna Zworykina on her excellent website NaturalPerfumery.ru. It is divided into two parts:
Part one
Part two
Hope you enjoy it!

Cocoa Tuberose

cacao, a photo by prima_stella on Flickr.

Not too many know it, but both tuberose and cacao originated in Mexico. Two raw materials that are of unparalleled, inimitable quality. Addictive and almost maddening substances. And Charna Ethier of Providence Perfume Co. have made the bold step of melding them to create something new and unique.

Cocoa Tuberose opens with tuberose as the main note, paired with juicy grapefruit for an uplifting effect of otherwise very dark, dense composition. If you're not familiar with pure, natural tuberose absolute, you might not find it to be as floral as expected. Tuberose absolute has an almost green, waxy feel to it underlined by a buttery sweetness. It's not as flowery as, say, jasmine or ylang ylang. And in this perfume in particular - tuberose is used in an original way, where its grassy and butter qualities balance the heavy, seductive gourmand notes of chocolate.

But the story does not end here: the chocolate is used very subtly as in the expert hand of a chef who just wants an accent of cacao in a savoury dish. Nutty vetiver comes forth, and plays a duet with powdery, caramel-like tonka bean. Despite the depth and complexity of these distinctive, opposing notes are seamlessly blended in such way that not only do they not overpower one another, but also create a new harmony that is unexpectedly savoury rather than decadent.

Cocoa Tuberose is one of the sexiest perfumes I've tried in a while, and although the name might imply a very girly scent - I know it would smell fantastic on both men and women. It appeals to a very grown-up, refined taste and is well-balanced and satisfying, like a square of smooth woody-floral dark chocolate.

Top notes: Grapefruit, Wormwood
Heart notes: Tuberose
Base notes: Cacao Absolute, Vetiver, Tobacco Absolute

More Blunda Wonders

Through the Blunda Gate, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

Blunda is just one little place but so many things:
1) Botanical Natural Perfume Destination:
At the Botanical Perfume Lounge in the forefront of this unique space, customers can relax and get to know these beautiful creations in an intimate, unhurried environment. The boutique owner and her assistant will really spend time with you to help you find a scent and also better understand
2) Aromatic Apothecary with many fantastic raw materials for sale - including incense making supplies, gums, resins, dried herbs and flowers, and, of course - essential oils of highest grades, including rare absolutes and Traditional Indian attars.
3) Interactive Studio - where you can take workshops for making just about anything that smells good: Persephenie teaches natural botanical perfumery, as well as guest teachers (Jeanne Rose is a regular guest). And other fun workshops, such as incense making, body products and skin care, candles, and more.
4) Perfume Studio where perfumer, artist and aromatherapist Persephenie Snyder creates her own perfumes and designs fragrances for candles and body products for other companies.

Persephenie will launch her scented skincare line and her new perfumes in her very own Natural Botanical Perfume Exhibition No. 3 @ Blunda next month, May 30th.

Natural perfume lines in the store include:

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, the renown independent perfumer from Colorado who has several ntarual perfumes in her line (including her Perfumed Court line). Currently at Bounda there are two of her all-natural perfumes: Eau de Cologne (Aqua Admirabillis) and Rose Vert which are both very nice and simple.
Dawn's exhibition at Blunda will be in October 24th.

JoAnne Bassett's new lines - the French Collection and the Royal Collection - are naturally very French (JoAnne is from French background and lives in California). The line is complex yet very accessible and the fact that these are Eaux de Toilette sprays makes them easy to wear. I was especially smitten with Napoléon (a wonderfully made and long lasting spicy incense perfume), Madame de Pompadour (which is very unusual and sensual fruity-floral with notes of champaca, gardenia vanilla, verbena and clementine and I am quite sure I also smell cassis and a hint of patchouli in the mix), and Camille (sophisticated floral with osmanthus and tuberose) and Chantelle (floral and fruity with jasmine, rose and tuberose). The lines offer quite a versatile range. Josephine, for example, is a classic green rose and iris scent. JoAnne will be at Blunda for her exhibit August 15.

Aftelier
Mostly the miniatures (except fo Pink Lotus the stunning Shiso), and including the new perfume Cassis, which I found to be too muddy and dominated by patchouli.

Velvet & Sweet Pea's Purrfumery - From the perfumes, my favourite which I tried was Narcissus Poeticus, which smells more like Osmanthus than narcissus.
And I was most smitten with the whipped frostings the Laurie creates, with whipped shea butter and soft florals. I took home with me a jar of both Kashmir Rose (smells like Rahat Loukoum) and Gardenia Tuberose (heavenly creamy tuberose with underlining coconut).

Yosh's Winter Rose - a spicy rose in an oil base with notes of cardamom and Turkish rose.
Yosh will appear at Blunda sometime in July (exact date TBA).

And of course, there is my very own line, which I am very fortunate to have in this wonderful location and setting - with 5 newly added perfumes - Bon Zai, Charisma, White Potion & Zohar (in both 5ml roll-on oil formulation and 9ml flacons of Parfum Extrait which is grain alcohol based). And the new perfume, Hanami. Also new to the selection at Blunda are my 4 scented soywax candles (8oz each, which last for 60 hours) - ArbitRary, Bois d'Hiver, Roses et Chocolat and White Potion. These new products are not on the Blunda website as of yet, but if you live in LA or the area you can find them at the boutique. I will let you know when they are up online.

Other treats at Blunda include candles, candle holders and diffusers (I really liked Persephenie's pretty and simple aromatherapy candles - particularly the Eucaliptus & Spearmint and the Lemongrass & Chamomile one - which was surprisingly very floral). And there are body and skincare products too - such as Velvet & Sweet Pea's bath salts and the abovementioned and incredibly beautiful whipped frostings; and Ayurvedic skincare, and of course - very soon Persephenie's very own line of scented skincare, of which I only smelled Vetiveria but will let you know once it comes out and I've tried every single one of them.

Sniffapalooza Magazine Interivews Persephenie & Reviews Sahleb Perfume

The March 1st issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine is out, featuring two interesting pieces that are related to yours truly:
An interview with natural perfumer Persephenie Snyder, the founder of Blunda in Los Angeles - where natural perfumes, art and education happen all under one roof and is hosting an 8-months long event of perfume exhibitions.
Ayala Moriel will be there April 17-19; Saturday April 18 being an afternoon tea with Q&A and showcasing my contribution to last spring's Perfume Inside a Poem project.

And lastly, Michelyn Camen's article Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times features my Sahleb perfume.

CALDENDAR of Olfactory & Culinary Workshops

OLFACTORY & CULINARY WORKSHOPS

Raw Materials 02, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

The following are the classes and workshops offered at Ayala Moriel Parfums studio during the next few months. There are no pre-requisites for attending these workshops, but we do recommend you register for the class as early as possible, as the number of spots is very limited (we only take 6 students for the practical workshops, and up to 10 for "theoretical" workshops such as lectures and olfactory presentations).
Thursday, August 9th

Calendar of Workshops and Olfactory Events at Ayala Moriel Parfums Studio

The following is our workshop calender. You may also book a workshop just for you and a small group of friends (up to 10). More details on available workshops can be found below.

Sunday, November 11th, 1:00-3:00pm

Rememberance Day - No Classes

Thursday, November 15, 6:00-9:00pm

AROMATIC COOKING with FRESH HERBS, SPICES & FLORAL ESSENCES

Sunday, November 18th, 1:00-3:00pm

Candle Making Workshop

Wednesday, November 21st, 6:30-8:30pm

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES WORKSHOP

Thursday, November 22, 6:00-9:00pm

INNER WISDOM OUTER BEAUTY: BEAUTIFICATION AND BODY CARE WITH NATURAL AROMATICS

Sunday, November 26th, 11:30-6:00pm

Portobello West - No workshops

Thursday, November 29th, 6:30-8:30pm

Stunning Stationary: Scented paper and Greeting Cards

Sunday, December 2nd, 12:00-3:00pm

Crème Parfum workshop

Sunday, December 2nd, 3:00-6:00pm

The Art of Incense

Thursday, December 6th, 6:30-8:30pm

Stunning Stationary: Scented paper and Greeting Cards

Sunday, December 9th, 1:00-3:00pm

Crème Parfum workshop

Thursday, December 13th, 6:30-8:30pm

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES WORKSHOP - for last minute gift-making!!!

Sunday, December 16th, 11:30-6:00pm

Portobello West - No workshops -last minute holiday shopping ;)

Thursday, December 20th

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES WORKSHOP - for last minute gift-making!!!

Workshops Details

CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES WORKSHOP

Learn how to make scented chocolate truffles with fine chocolate base and precious floral essences. We will be making two types of truffles (white or milk based, and dark chocolate base), and you will be taking them home with you to share with loved ones (or not…).
How much: $40 per person including materials (limited to 6 people)

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Scent Stripes, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

Crème Parfum workshop

Learn how to design and create your own personal perfume from precious botanical essences. By the end of the workshop, you will have made a perfume to take with you. We will provide simple jars as basic packaging, but fancy silver compacts or porcelain pillboxes from the perfumer’s collection will be available for purchasing, for those who wish to add an extra visual and tactile touch to their first olfactory creation!
How much: $75 per person incudling materials (limited to 6 people)

THE ART OF PERFUMED CANDLEMAKING

Join our guest instructor Nikki Sheritt, an artisan candle maker of Seattle-based Gabriel's Aunt, for an afternoon of candle-making. You will learn how to make beautifully fragrant soy candles using essential oils and natural vegetable waxes. You'll be guided step-by-step in the process of blending the essences, moulding and crafting a high-quality, clean-burning candle. By the end of the class, you will take with you a specially scented candle, beautifully packaged and gift wrapped - ready to go under the tree!
Date: Sunday, November 18th, 1:00-3:00pm
How much: $45 including materials

THE ART OF INCENSE

Learn about the origins of incense and create your own incense blend using precious resins, gums, woods, spices and herbs. We will pulverize, grind and mix together raw materials that were used in incense makig since antiquity. After experiencing first hand the sensual aromatic process of incense making you may never look at incense the same way again...
How much: $35 per person incudling materials (limited to 6 people)

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ICE CREAM WITH FLORAL WATERS

Learn how to make ice cream from scratch, using top quality fresh ingredients and original, all-natural flavourings such as hydrosols and resins traditionally used in Middle Eastern desserts.
This class is also open to children ages 4 and up, when accompanied with a parent.

How Much: $25/adult, $5/child

Chocolate Truffles with Kids

Learn how to make scented chocolate truffles with fine chocolate base and delicious botanical essences. We will be making two types of children's favourite truffles (white and milk), and you will be taking them home with you to share with siblings and friends (or not…).

How much: $25/adult $5/child
*This class is also open to children ages 3 and up, when accompanied with a parent.

LIP BALMS with Kids

Create your own delicious lip balm for soft glossy lips! Making lip balm is fun and easy, and a great way to engage young children in the process.

How much: $25/adult $5/child
*This class is also open to children ages 3 and up, when accompanied with a parent.

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SCENTED BODY PRODUCTS PART I: BATH SALTS & MASSAGE OILS

Making your own bath and body products is fun and easy. You’ll be using high quality, readily available ingredients to make your own, custom-scented bath salts and massage oils.

How much: $45 person including materials (limited to 6 people)

SCENTED BODY PRODUCTS PART II: SUGAR SCRUBS

Making your own bath and body products is fun and easy. You’ll be using high quality, readily available ingredients to make your own, custom-scented sugar scrubs.

How much: $45 per person incudling materials (limited to 6 people)

SCENTED BODY PRODUCTS PART III: BODY BUTTERS

Making your own bath and body products is fun and easy. You’ll be using high quality, readily available ingredients to make your own, custom-scented body butters.

How much: $45 per person incudling materials (limited to 6 people)

Introduction to Natural Perfumery

This class is an interactive introduction to the art of natural perfumery. You will learn about how perfume is constructed, and will get exposed to the thinking process of a perfumer. You will learn how to sniff like a “Nose” and evaluate beautiful and strange essences from around the world, and smell how they were incorporated in some of Ayala Moriel’s perfume creations.

How much: $25 per person

DIY Booze

Learn how to make your own fine liquors from readily available aromatics and spirits.
In this class we will make homemade Limoncello, a classic for the summer!

How much: $25 per person (Including materials)

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Powders and Sachets

Create all-natural sachets, scented powders and potpourri based on vintage recipes from the turn of the century. The finished products make a perfect gift and will inspire you to do more at home.

How much: $45 per person (Including materials)

Stunning Stationary: Scented paper and Greeting Cards

Make your own beautifuly scented stationary and greeting cards. We will be using handcrafted paper and blank greeting cards and botanical elements to create stunning stationary - both visually and olfactory-wise. The stationary can be used as holiday greeting cards, or as a gift with a personal touch.

How much: $40 per person (including materials)

Aromatic Cooking with Fresh Herbs, Spices & Floral Essences

"We cook and complain that it's a waste of time, when we should be pouring our love into making that food" (Paulo Coelho, "The Witch of Portobello")

Join Ayala for a fabulous evening of aromatic cooking- using fresh herbs, freshly ground spices, floral waters and essential oils - in both savory and sweet dishes. Your will be given a collection of recipes to try at home, and receive guidelines for aromatic cooking. As an inspiration, we will be preparing a seasonal feast together (which we will enjoy at the end of the class, of course!) including an appetizer, a main course, a dessert and beverages to accompany the meal. I hope that by the end of the class you will feel inspired to use your own aromatic culinary creations at home and feel encouraged to express your creativity in the kitchen, using the best quality aromatics you can source.

In each cooking workshop, no matter the season, will give some basic guidelines and recipes for:

Preparing from scratch your own ground spice mixtures and pastes (such as curries, garam masalas, etc.).

Using fresh herbs in savory dishes, dips, condiments and pickles.

Preparing your own salad dressings and marinades using essential oils and/or fresh herbs.

Using exotic spices and/or essential oils in desserts and baked goods.

Concocting specialty teas and beverages - chilled or warm, depending on the seasons.

How much: $55 including materials (space limited to 6 students).

Dolomates Dinner
Learn how to make Stuffed Grapevine Leaves and than join the feast of Dolomates and other delicious appetizers from the Mediterranean region!
How much: $45 per person

Intro to Natural Perfumery: Raw Materials

Raw Materials 03, originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

Yesterday night was the first "Intro to Natural Perfumery" presentation at my studio. We went through the materials used in natural perfumery, how they are in their raw state (with some samples as pictured above), how their essences are extracted, and how the essences are than being put together to make a perfume.

We went through some representative building blocks from most groups (i.e.: citrus, herbal, floral, earthy, animalic, woody, spicy, etc.) and also talked about the fragrance pyramid (top notes, heart notes and base notes).

We concluded the presentation with a breakdown of one of my perfumes, ArbitRary. I pulled apart the notes that make it, and we smelled them together on blotter stripes, pulling apart the horizontal accords and vertical accords, and than smelling them all together and comparing them to the finished perfume.

We had a full house of 6 participants, which gives everybody just enough time to sniff the essences and ask questions and so on. I try to make my presentations as "hands-on" and interacntive as possible. I think it's more interesting this way than just listen to someone talk for two hours :)
It was fun for both myself and the participants, and I am looking forward to more presentations like this one in the future!

Next Thursday (June 21st) will be a Limoncello making workshop (an Italian lemon liquor), and the last workshop this month will be a solid perfume making workshop. We only have space for 6 people in each workshop, and spaces are filling up fast - so make sure you reserve your spot now if you'd like to participate!

A full calendar of workshops will be posted here (as well as on my website) shortly. Also, starting July, I will be offering the Foundations of Natural Perfumery course - a basic course of 8 sessions for all those who want to learn how to make perfumes on their own. In the fall, I will be also offering more courses on the topic, starting with beginner level and working up to intermediate level Natural Perfumery. Classes will be offered on Mondays and Thursdays, with some one-on-one sessions and possibly weekend sessions as well.

Aftelier's Orchid

The star of the show in Aftelier's Orchid is orange blossom, masked by a contrasting olfactory context to reveal an imaginary fragrance of an exotic orchid hidden in the midst of a tropical swamp. The flowers are floating above musty jungle-dust of toxic purple mushrooms and thick marsh water that is bubbling with silent life and violent decay. The euphoric and intoxicating fragrance lures us through the deadly water to find out more about its mysterious source and become illuminated by its beauty.

There is no true orchid essential oil (except for vanilla, of course, which is produced from the fermented pods of the vanilla orchid). In fact, orchids have a long history in perfumery of being "faked” by the perfumer using what is often referred to as a "compound" - an array of natural essences and synthetic molecule to portray either an imaginary scent or to replicate a scent in nature that cannot be distilled from the original plant or flower.

Mandy Aftel, one of the pioneers of Natural Perfumery, does it with her Orchid solid perfume. While I can't say that this scent reminds me of any particular orchid I’ve ever smelled - I can attest to the originality and imagination that shines in this perfume.

In Orchid, Mandy Aftel artfully paired the sunny, cheerful and spring-like floral note of orange flower absolute with the mysterious and deep aroma of shiso leaves. Shiso (aka Perilla) is a Japanese herb used to flavour meats, soba noodles and sushi. It has a strange and unique scent - warm, herbal and powdery all at once, green and with a slightly cumin-like undertone. The result is stunning and unusual. The base is a subtle sweet vanilla. The only problem I have with this scent is that it doesn't last on my skin for as long as I’d like it to; yet the immense pleasure of dipping my fingers in the elegant silver compact makes up for that, and exemplifies Mandy’s infectious passion for solid perfumes.

Images from the film Adoptation, courtesy of IMDB.com.

Podcast Interview with Mandy Aftel

This is a fantastic and lengthy interview on Organic Beauty Radio with Natural Perfumer and teacher Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, author of Essence and Alchemy and the founder of the Artisan Natural Perfumery Guild.
Thanks to Anya for the tip!

Best of 2006

Well, everybody else is doing it, and I love making lists, so I am joining the party!
Instead of using the usual categories (i.e. the best of fragrance family this or that or evening or day time perfumes, etc.) I am going to summarize my olfactory events of this year, perfume-wearing wise (My next post will cover my personal view of the year past from my point of view as a perfumer). I invite you to join me here and tell me which perfumes brought laughter and pleasure to your life this year, and that you would like to remember this year by.

The Discovery of the Year:
Farnesiana by Caron.
This pure parfum of acacia flowers (relative to the mimosa but with deeper notes) is brilliant and original. Paired with vanilla and almondy heliotrope notes, it is modern even decades after it was created. It makes most of the current gourmands look shallow and silly, and shows that there is no end to innovation in perfumery, even when it comes to … well, florals…

Favourite New Niche Perfume of the Year:
Songes by Annick Goutal
I finally found a Goutal I love!
This magical white floral by Isabelle Doyen is everything I need in a floral: a soft opening (rather than heady), a complexity (ylang ylang, jasmine, gardenia, nost just one note) and a sweet, comforting base to ensure interest, richness and longevity. This is soft, opulent and envelopes me with comfort and beauty.

Favourite New Mainstream Perfume of the Year:
L by Lolita Lempika.
I was so underwhelmed by it when I first smelled it on a scent stripe when it came out in the summer. Wait till the weather cools down, and try it on your skin – it’s like melting vanilla on your skin and like melted buttery cookies in your mouth. I don’t find the immortelle particularly apparent though. A tint of orange and cinnamon makes it a bit interesting at the top, but overall it’s a wonderfully linear scent. It’s another loveable creation from Maurice Roucel, with his signature chic vanilla.
Favourite scented body product:


Favourite Classic of the Year:
Le Parfum de Therese
This genius of a Chypre seems to have so much to offer yet is very lighthearted. I think it’s exactly what I need and it is now my most favourite of all the classic Chypres that I own. I like the cheerful sparkling citrus and tart plum, the rejuvenation of basil and the watery melon notes, the luscious yet light jasmine, and the subtley complex base notes, with just a hint of leather for dryness and the classic Chypre accord. It seems to be perfectly balanced and balancing, as a good Chyre should be, and oh so flexible. The only reason I don’t wear it all the time is because I savour it for warm days so it will remind me of the gorgeous hot spring days in Jerusalme in my previous visit there, when I wore it between dry stones and beating, blinding sun rays and it was as appropriate as a simple linen dress.

My Surprise of the Year:
I like Jo Malone’s Vintage Gardenia. In fact, I enjoy Jo Malone quite a bit recently, but this scent is going to be an all-time favourite. It just hits me in the right spot. It’s elegant and clean and simple, but not too simple. It reminds me of things past but not painfully so. I like it on its own or with a tiny amount of Black Vetyver Café, which I think works utterly well with the cardamom note in it. But otherwise I find layering quite confusing to my nose… I found myself wearing it day after day for over a week's period which is quite unusual for me. Yet another white floral I like, besides my own Tamya and White Potion, and this year's new love - Songes!

My 180 Degrees Twist of Fate of the Year:
I love Narciso Rodriguez!
Well, after having a longish love&hate affair with Narciso Rodriguez I finally settled down and am ready for commitment. I have just about every size possible of this scent and carry it almost always with me when I travel. This spring I really ennoyed it immensely, and I find that it is one of the most original modern creations possible. I am even going to give it full attention by dedicating a review of it on my blog. Really soon!

The Re-Discovery of the Year:
(And by this I mean a scent I haven’t worn for a long time and re-discovered it’s beauty this year).
I am afraid to say – none. I have been mostly indulging myself with perfumes that are new to me, and for some reason staying away from my old time favourites for the most time. I have worn very little Mitsouko, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit or any other Guerlain classic this year. Which is kind of sad in a way… I think I needed to stay away from the flood of emotions they contain within them. I think Miss Dior (or more so, the mourning of it’s reformulation) was the main event for me in that area. I have fallen in love with it again, and have been really digging the lighter Chypre qualities in it (the green top notes, that is). Perhaps is says something about me – is it not wanting to go to deep emotionally? Is my taste changing? Am I becoming a shallow gal who can only get excited about new things? I think it’s seeking simplicity and enjoying a perfume for a more extended amount of time, and it was new ones (to me) that really answered to my mood this year.

Self Discovery of the Year:
I like lighter scents.
I find myself staying away from my heavy orientals and chypres more than usual, and leaning towards woody, musky compositions more often than ever. Scents that I find myself surprised to return to over and over again are the ones that I have been wearing the most this year (see below).

Most worn this year: The perfumes I have been wearing the most this year are also more simple, and tend to be more dry than sweet. I think the top-worn are:
Razala
Narciso Rodriguez
Le Parfum de Therese
Vintage Gardenia
Agent Provocateur

The Disappointment of the Year:
Black Orchid by Tom Ford
I am neither a fan nor a hater of Tom Ford and his olfactory concepts. When his first scent was approaching, I was easily able to hold myself together and wait till whenever it hits the local counters. Though the packaging is quite beautiful (though not particularly original, considering the similar designs of Nuit de Noel and Habanita which preceeded Black Orchid by decades), the name is particularly corny and over used in my opinion. So you see, when I mean disappointment I refer to it purely in the olfactory sense.
At first, Black Orchid seems to stand up to all the expectations it tried to set in the packaging and marketing campaign. The opening notes are definitely luxurious, Femme-Fatale infuses mushroom sautéed in their very own arrogant sexual secretion while deeply inhaling spices. There is some nicely done chocolate accord as well… But if you think this is the base, you have been miserably deceived. These carnal notes wear off quickly, gradually revealing a phase of rum-soaked berries (not so bad on their own, really) and than a short lived rose opens up, only to be brutally murdered by an aquatic patchouli accord. From now on it will only go downhill, resembling a better-version-of-Allure-Sensuelle, which while is quite an achievement on its own rights, it is also frightfully disappointing in its own original way:
In Black Orchid, Tom Ford had proved to the world that it is possible to create a perfume with marvelous opening that smells worser and worser as it develops on the skin, thus creating the most disappointing fragrance of 2006.

* I can accept the idea of a perfume opening with less than lovely notes, and becoming better thanks to interaction with the skin (though this is not always the case, of course, because of body chemistry etc.). But to intentionally create such a devolution from fantastic to unoriginal is quite insulting.

Favourite Scented Body Product:
Azuree Body Oil
This is a really fun scent to wear, and I have been particularly enjoying it over the summer. It’s not so heavy as it may sound. And the texture is not too oily either, albeit rather moisturizing. You can read my full review here. I also found out I actually like body oils quite a lot, in the summer anyways. It adds a nice protective layer before swimming in an over-bleached swimming pool, or truely salty ocean - and the scent is nice when blended with either of these chemicals...


The Best “I Love It But I Never Wear It” Perfume of the Year:
Chinatown
Like Cait, I discovered this much later than anyone else, just this summer. Not the best time to try Chinatown if you ask me… It is one of the most unusual perfumes I recently added to my collection, though I know some will disagree and compare it to something else. I think it’s unusual for its combination of spices, florals and sweet patchouli and vetiver base. I only wish I had more occasions to wear it, as it just doesn’t work for me in every day use (and I am known for wearing whatever I want whenever I want). I hope I will find good opportunities to wear it, but overall I had more times when I found out it was the wrong scent to wear for the occasion (i.e.: dinner) or that I applied too much. The sillage on this one deserves a cautious label on the packaging. Preferably accompanied with illustrations and measuring droppers.

The Naughty yet Nice Perfume of the Year:
Agent Provocateur
Starting with a vintage Femme Fatale air to it, Agent Provocateur seems to be for a lady in the dark. However, if you spray it early enough before leaving the house, it dries down to a satisfactorily subtle musky and woody (vetiver, that is to say) with a hint of tartness – which is quite versatile really.





Best New Perfume House in 2006:

For the most part, this year has been quite disappointing in my opinion in terms of new releases. One refreshing standout was the launch of Anya’s Garden – a line inspired by botanical gardens from around the world. The perfumer, Anya McCoy, is also a landscape architect, and the director of the Artisan Natural Perfumery Guild. It is not a surprise that her scents are dedicated to gardens. I love the concept as well as the perfumes. These are complex, well structured creations that are original and innovative and use unusual notes in an otherwise classic structure. The results are quite stunning, with complexity and imagery that sucks you in and transports you to their own realms. My favourite is Pan, of course, as it uses goat hair tincture, moss, Seville lavender absolute, hay and is deeply amebry as well as aromatically rejuvenating. Fairchild is also quite a standout, with its myriads of intertwining notes of exotic and narcotic flora singing in counterpoint. I can’t say I smelled all the perfumes that my fellow members of the Guild are crafting with much love and attention to detail, but McCoy is a great example and a leader in the field. I think I ought to also give Anya the award for the most promising perfumer for 2007, as I can’t wait to smell what else comes under her hands!
The image above, by the way, is a digital collage by Anya McCoy herself. I love it and wish you all a full and fragrant year, just as the image suggests!

Next post:
My personal accounts of the fragrant events of last year as a Natural Perfumer, and my outlook for the next year, fragrance-wise.

To read more year-end reviews of a few other perfume blogs, I recommend visiting these blogs (it's really interesting to see some repeating themes, and the comletely differnt systems each created for their categories):
Perfume Shrine
Legerdenez
Cognoscented
Aromascope
Perfume Posse
Perfume Smellin' Things
Victoria's Own
Pink Manhattan
Sweet Diva

2006 in Natural Perfumery

The year 2006 has been a significant year for Natual Perfumery. In this tightly-knit community of professionals from around the world, old bonds have been strengthened by the re-opening of the Artisan Natural Perfumery Guild. New connections were created as the Guild attracts new members, and new members keep joining the Natural Perfumery study group (a free discussion forum hosted on Yahoo). At the same time, more recognition is garnered, for individual perfumers and their work, as well as the movement of Artisanal Natural Perfumery - in mainstream media as well as online - and this is happening world wide.

As the Guild’s Mentoring Program Coordinator, I was fortunate to meet and interact with teachers and working perfumers from around the world, as well as eager enthusiast members who are working hard on developing their olfactory skills and mastering the art of Natural Perfumery.

There were many new releases this year in the Natural Perfumery world – a few of them I will briefly mention here, but you will be better off visiting Natural Perfumery.com or the Guild’s website and visit the official sites of the perfumers to get a true picture of what we offer: innovative approach to perfumery, with the advantage of artisanal quality and the many new and exciting raw materials that were not available in previous centuries. Each perfumer has their personal touch added, their own unique style and at times their own unique raw materials, often from the place in the world they are from.

The following are brief reviews of what was launched this year - even though I haven't tried all of the scents, I know the body of work of most of the perfumers and can attest to their integrity and passion about their art. It's interesting to see the evolution and change in style and approaches, the new concepts that are conceived in the aterilers of my fellow perfumers. Despite the fact that we all create with a similar pallette of naturals (which is far more limited than what you'd find in the labs of a commercial perfumer using synthetics), the styles are completely different, and each of the perfumers seem to have their own unique "fingerprint" - a signature that can be recognized within the structure or style of the perfume (even if we don't necessarily have a signature "accord" a-la-Guerlainade).

Mandy Aftel of Aftelier (the founder of the original Guild and author of the landmark book Essence and Alchemy) has released two new perfumes – Orchid (a solid perfume based on orange blossom) and Tango – a mélange of champaca flowers and the sexy smokiness of roasted seashells (aka Choya Nakh).

Anya McCoy of Anya’s Garden, the reviver of the Guild, and the founder of the Natural Perfumery study group on Yahoo as well as NaturalPerfumery.com has finally released to the world her ready-to-wear perfume line inspired by botanical gardens from around the world. Pan is the first perfume to have ever used a unique cruelty-free animal essence of goat-hair tincture which adds a unique qualitiy to this herbal, ambery, rustic perfume. Her other creation, Fairchild, isn’t any less unusual in its choice of Mitti attar (baked earth from India), pure ambergris and pandanus (a heady , gigantic tropical flower), and tinctures of many different varieties of jasmine flowers as well as other tropical blossoms. The depth and richness of Anya’s creations are a reflection of her work as a landscape designer, and her passion for perfumes that started when she was as young as two year old. And her perfumes have the same playfulness about them ;)

This year I had the fortune to meet in person a special guest to my town – Lisa Fong of Artemisia Perfume and get an early sniff of her new creations. This year she created Voile – a delicate, fragile jasmine scent that is ethereal and impressionistic; Edwardian Rose – with a base of Tonquin Musk (the real thing!); and Anumati, a rich perfume tribute to the Indian Moon Goddess, bearing the unusual marking of Kadam tree blossom, black cumin and cepes.

My own line has flooded the world of aromatics with several new creations. I won’t bore you with the details now, as I am planning a whole post to summarize my own personal perfumery year. But you can read about all of them if you click here.

Isabelle Aurel of Desire in Sunlight created Gragie, an Italian memoir; Champagne, with pink grapefruit, kewda and cognac (sounds champagne like indeed!); Nandi – a Chypre perfume; and Sex in the Surf, with boronia and seaweed. She also added many delicious flavours to her fragrant Chocolat Ganaches!

Joanne Bassett of Le Bijou recently opened her own retail shop in La Jolla, Callifornia. She also launched her new French Collection, tributes to classy and sassy French woman and each perfume represents a different personality – and they all start with a “C”.

Nick Jennings of Sharini Parfums Naturels from France has a beautiful site that is worth visiting – as his creations don’t only look delicious and are beautifully packaged - they are also organic and are prepared in organic alcohol. The four perfumes are:
Floriental, with spicy and citrus top notes, floral heart notes of jasmine, ylang and magnolia, and a base of vanilla, cedar and patchouli;
Potion d’Amour, a love potion with notes of bergamot, mandarin, rose, jasmine, magnolia, lavender, benzoin and vetiver;
Mediterrane, a chypre with notes of verbena, bergamot, geranium, lavender, rose, oakmoss, vetiver and patchouli;
and Rhapsodie, a masculine scent with notes of bergamot, black pepper, cardamom, jasmine, ylang, sandalwood and frankincense.

Alexandra Ballahoutis of Strange Invisible Perfumes released two special edition scents - Anthony and Cleopatra, which must be doing well since it seems to be out of stock; and Agape, an oil-based perfume with jasmine and rose and cocoa. Her new scent, Magazine Street, celebrates the cultural mélange of New Orleans with notes of magnolia, vanilla, patchouli, vetiver and musk and donates 8% of the retail sales to Katrina Releaf.

Liz (Zz) Zorn of Zz’s Petals released her first ready-to-wear collection, and also opened her own boutique at her Peace Angel Farm in Cincinnati, Ohio. And she also released another new line of organic scents called Fussione’ Parfume. I have only tried one of Zz's perfumes, Jazz Trio No. 1, and am curious to try all of her other creations, which like Anya's, are very special in their quality as she uses her very own tinctures of aromatics that cannot be found otherwise (as an essential oil or an absolute). Blueberry tincture, Champaca wood tincture and maple syrup are just a few examples of scents that Zz puts her heart into tincturing and adding to her scents.
Congratulations!

I think I am not alone here in feeling that the next year bears many promises for my niche of perfumery. And I am looking forward to it. What we are offering is refreshing, original and unique. Definitely something to look forward to in the New Year. What sets us apart from other perfume houses, including some other niche houses, is that we are completely
independent (unlike some niche houses which "borrow" a nose from the large perfume companies such as IFF, Givaudon etc.), thus having a full creative control over what we do. Our advantage is that we respond very fast to what our clients want and need (i.e.: creating custom perfumes and at times even adjusting formulas and concentrations to suit the customer's particular body chemistry and improve the performance of the scent on their skin). We also put our heart into every aspect of the process, from tincturing our own essences, to every detail in the packaging - both design, and the physical decanting, labeling and last finish of the look of what the final product is. This involves lots of work, sometimes till late at night or early in the morning, as most of us work alone or with very minimal help. The results shows in every part of the product, from the packaging to the very last drop of essence as it touches your skin and interacts with who you are.

Interview on PerfumeCritic.com

Read Ayala Sender's Interview with Marlen Harrison of PerfumeCritic.com - it was published today, and you are invited to read and add comments as you please. One of the readers who posts a comment will win a free fragrance consultation and a sample pack of 12 samples from Ayala Moriel Parfums!

Ayala Moriel was also mentioned in the Perfume Advice Column today, together with no less than Anya McCoy of Anya's Garden - the dedicated director of the new Artisan Natural Perfumery Guild.

It's great to see Natural Perfumery acknowledged in such an appropriate time - as some of you know, December is Natural Perfumery Month!

Stocking Stuffers, Naturally!

To celebrate Natural Perfumery Month this December, SmellyBlog provides you with a run down of stocking-stuffers offered by the Artisan Natural Perfumers’ Guild. The following are presented in an alphabetical order, with top picks particularly suitable for the holidays, as well as some fabulous ideas for stocking suffers!

I tried to keep all the items in this list under $40, and of course you are welcome to browse through the sites and find other super-special all-natural fragrant gifts, and read more about additional holiday specials.

Aftelier offers miniatures of most of Mandy Aftel’s parfums and essences (perfume oils). These 2ml sized each for $35, or three minis of your choice for $100:



A Little Olfactory’s Natural Wax candles: Votive candles for $2.50, and travel tin candles for $7.50. These come in four delicious fragrances: Carnation Fantasy, Lemon Verben Bouquet, Rosemary & Lavender , and Triple Mint. You can also find on this site a delicious Rose Petal Jam, incense and potpourri.

Anatolian Treasures – Natural Wax Candles
2oz votive candles range from $2-3, depeding on quantity bought. These are available in a variety of scents, including the particularly festive aromas of Fir/Spruce/Pine, Cardammom, Cinnamon & Orange.

Anya’s Garden just launched her new site (congratulations!), and offers Spray Samples for $30.

Artemisia Natural Perfume – offers sample packages for $12-20, and miniature eau de parfum splash bottle for $38 of which my favourites are Saffron (which reminds me of a warm-coloured silk sari), and Lavender & Cloves, and Anumati (scented with an unusually warm Kadam Tree Flower).

Ayala Moriel Parfums offers miniature vials of all scents this winter for only $31.99, or you can order a miniature wardrobe and get one for free. There is also a new scent in our collection for this winter: Bois d'Hiver, a refreshing take on the winter holiday scents.

Crimson Moon also offers candles, in many sizes colours and shapes. All scented with 100% pure plant aromas.

Desire in Sunlight
You can experience this line of line of perfumes and solid perfumes, samples of 3 for $15, or samples of all fragrances for $29
I haven’t tried all of Isabelle’s perfumes, but I fell hard and strong for her scented chocolate ganaches. My favourite is Jasmine Chocolate – a jasmine flavoured chocolate ganache, which is to die-for!
6oz for $18, 9oz for $24. These ganaches also come in other flavours, such as frangipani, lime, vervaine, lavender, blue lotus and tuberose!

Ecco Bella's scents in Bourbon Vanilla, Lavender, Ambrosia and Verbena run for $18.50 and can be also find in some brick&mortar stores across North America.

Fleur de Lis Parfums
The entire line of Fleur de Lis perfumes is offered in crème parfums in sterling silver boxes, for between $20-35.

Ganache for Lips
These gourment all=natural lip balms are the only lip balm that contains Scharffen Berger Chocolate - these all natural lip balms are offered in 9 delicious flavours, including chocolate mint, chocolate orange, mocha latte, chocolate raspberry, chocolate marzipan, chocolate hazelnut, lemon mousse, chocolate mousse and vanilla mousse.

Jeanne Rose’s Victorian Potpourri aromatherapy kit includes special holiday scent for scenting the room:
Anise, Cinnamon, Gifts of the Magi, Christmas Fir, Cedarwood & Orange Peel
$42.00 includes 6 Essential Oils packaged in a Handcrafted Tapestry Bag in a Santa & Teddy Bear Pattern

JoAnne Bassett’s new French Collection. 2ml vials are $35, and come in four intriguingly feminine, and sophisticated French scents: Chantelle, Camille, Colette and Contessa – all rich with pure floral absolutes such as rose, osmanthus, jasmine, tuberose and other rare essences. I am particularly intrigued by Colette, which combined cepes and cognac absolutes.


Lesle Abbot Gifts

Offers a Sample package for $20 and Be Still Meditation Blend $30 which includes calming and centering sacred oils of frankincense, myrrh, rose, blue lotus and more.

Lunaroma
Perfume Oil Roll-ons $17.25
Comes in 11 different fragrances, in a base of organic jojoba oil.

Maui Perfumes Flower Butters
Exotic floral butters from Hawaii – solid perfumes in single notes for $17, and the signature scent
”Maui Sunshine” is a “lei in a jar” with notes of jasmine, orange blossom, pink lotus and more – for $24.

Mundo Botanica
Anatolia by Sevi Key
Solid perfume for $25, with notes of rose, chocolate, jasmine, vanilla, orange, tuberose and osmanthus.

Passionflower Perfume – Garden Collection roll on perfumes $30, available in Citrus Garden, Exotic Garden, Meditation Garden, Rose Garden and Spice Garden.
PassionFlower Perfume Boutique currently carries selected scents from Ayala Moriel miniatures as well.

Secret Garden
1/3oz perfume oil roll-ons for $7.50 Fragrances include: French Lavender in jojoba oil or try Amber and Lavender, Hippie Rose or Patchouli-Vanilla, which are mixed in a dry oil.

Sharini - Based in France, this natural perfumery offers 4 scents – 3 for women (Floriental, Méditerranée, Potion d’amour), and one for men (Rhapsodie). The roll on parfums come in a base of oraganic alcohol.
Roll on perfume 12 Euro
Crème perfume 16 Euro

Strang Invisible Perfumes offers sample vials for $7, and also holiday candles. You can also enter into a draw and win a free consultation and a perfume.

White Witch, from Ireland, uses no plastic to package her products. She is offering a new and interesting aternative: a scent stick. A beeswax based stick that glides on the skin to leave it fragrant, and comes in White Witch Gold (Cocoa, Tonka, & Pink Lotus), White Witch Sweet Heart (Pink Grapefruit, Ylang Ylang &Vanilla) and White Witch Mystery (Orris, Opoponax & Jasmine).

Zz Petals Absolute Amber Collection – roll on 6ml for $40 each, in 5 scents: Crème Vanil, Frangipani Rose, Sienna Sun, White Angel Musk, Mandalay.

Looking at all the website of the fellow perfumers is a feast to the eyes as well as the nose. I am sure I haven't quite covered everything so please visit their websites for more information. The directory for the perfumers in the guild is listed both in the guild's website, and on NaturalPerfumery.com.

Happy Holidays!