Friday, June 24, 2011

Le Parfumeur Rebelle reviews Smiling Country

As part of A Midsummer Night's Dream - A Scent Event, Le Parfumeur Rebelle reviews Smiling Country. Very soon, I will reveal all the notes... Until then, I'm thrilled to read the descriptions of how the scent makes each of the bloggers feel. Swimming in a cold lake was never the intention, yet makes me happy: I love swimming so much, that evoking this feeling in my perfumes can only bring a smile to my face :-)

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Thursday, June 16, 2011

A Midsummer Night's Dream, A Perfume Event

This scent-blog event was initiated by Amanda Feeley of Esscentual Alchemy. As the blog posts reviewing the participating perfumes roll in, you can find the links here.
My contribution to the event is my Smiling Country perfume, reviewed by the following blogs:
Scent Hive
Perfume Pharmer.
Perfume Smellin' Things
Le Parfumeur Rebelle

I haven't revealed the notes used for the perfume, because I wanted the bloggers to experience it for what it is, rather than break it down and dwell on the particular elements that make up the perfume. Seems like this was getting the complete opposite reaction - they each seem very eager to guess what ingredients were used, and even more anxious to find out if they were right!

I'm sticking to my original plan, which is to not reveal what the notes are until everyone is done reviewing them. But since everyone seems to like some guessing - you are more than welcome to add your speculations!

The participating blogs in this project:
AbsintheDragonfly's Artfire Store Esscentual Alchemy's Blog

They will be reviewing perfumes by the following 16 perfumers:

Alfredo Dupetit - BioScent

Amanda Feeley - Esscentual Alchemy

Ambrosia Jones - Perfumes by Nature

Ane Walsh - Artesã Perfumista

Ankica Milic - Be-Bellatrix

Ayala Moriel - Ayala Moriel Parfums

Charna Ethier - Providence Perfumes

JoAnne Bassett - JoAnne Bassett Perfumes

Jane Cate - A Wing & A Prayer Perfumes

Justine Crane - The Scented Djinn

Libby Patterson - Libby Patterson Organics

Lisa Abdul-Quddus - Blossoming Tree

Lisa Fong ~ Artemisia Perfumes

Shelley Waddington - Envoyage Perfumes

Tanja Bochnig - April Aromatics

Yuko Fukami - Parfum Phyto

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Sunday, May 15, 2011

Midsummer's Night Dream Perfume

Tomorrow I'll be sending off samples of my perfume contribution to Midsummer's Night Dream perfume blogs event. It's been sitting and maturing for a whole month, which is pretty good... But all in all, I can't say I had enough time to bring the formula to perfection with this perfume, which is not unusual for these kinds of projects.

So, this morning, I had to revisit what I did on April 15th, and tweak it just a wee bit... It needed just a little bit more of bouquetting. And by adding no more than a single drop of a certain flower, I hope it achieved the roundness it needed, or at least closer to it. By doing this, I'm also killing another bird - which is demonstrating to my perfumery students this week what "bouquetting" is and how some notes have a transformative, harmonious effect on the perfume as a whole.

I've got 4 more days of teaching ahead of me, plus the incoming orders from my online spring event, so this will be a rather busy week! I'm not sure how much blogging I could get done this week, but I sure will try... I wish I could tell you more about the perfume I created, but I will have to wait another month for all the bloggers to try it and write about it, and I shouldn't be revealing the notes or anything else about its personality or how it smells, even though I'm itching to do so. We'll just have to wait for June!

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Friday, March 19, 2010

Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times: Joint Blogging Project + Giveaway

There are moments in life that none of us would have chosen to be in. But they are inevitable, unexpected and when they land on our heads out of the blue are extremely uncomfortable to say the least. Something just has to be done to ease the shock and discomfort. 13 other bloggers joined forces to help you find a sweet spot even in the worst of times (links at the bottom of the post).

Some of us find comfort in reading a book by the fireplace at the end of a rough day, some would cuddle up with a teddy bear, some would drown their misery in Southern Comfort, a bag of chips or a bucket of ice cream; and others will do all of the above. For us strange perfumista birds, the situation gets even trickier because when things get rough, it seems like the last thing you’d want to do is commemorate it with a beautiful scent that you’re bound to hate or dread for the rest of your olfactory life. So the damage is even greater when this one thing that brought so much pleasure, excitement and intrigue to our lives is all of a sudden out of the question.

So I’ve been thinking: What if instead of depriving myself from my favourite scents in those uncomfortable times – I’ll find some really fantastic scent to wear that will help to cope with the downright dreadfulness of the situation? Perhaps if I don’t wear it in the midst of the painful event, it will have the positive effect of comfort without the risk of becoming forever engrained in my memory as part of the pain itself?

Here are some ideas, for various degrees of non-fun situations and which scents I’d pick as an antidote. Keep in mind, that most likely the scent would be worn after the event has taken place. Just in the same way you’d brew yourself a cup of tea after hearing bad news.

Going to the dentist:
Opium Fleur de Shanghai. There’s enough cloves in this one to stop a tooth from aching. If that’s not enough try Opium in parfum extrait strength. A great tranquilizer.

Broken heart:
When I created Immortelle l’Amour, I made it exactly so thick with sweet intentions to remedy precisely that condition, that I’m quite convinced by now it might be sticky enough to glue together the fragments of a broken heart. And if it doesn’t, just take that blue heart bottle of L de Lolita Lempicka to replace the missing organ on your left side.
I think because both vanilla and cinnamon have such a positive association in my mind (from my grandmother’s baking!) that any perfume with high doses of both will never become a sad scent for me. Thank you grandma!

Learning that a close family member who lives far away is very ill, in the middle of the summer:
Sothing about Sofia. The lightheartedness of this flower and mango concoction could have been another fruity floral disaster, but it’s actually well done. The fruit is tart and refreshing and the flowers are just cheerful enough to keep your chin up and iron out some of those inevitable worry wrinkles unlit you find a flight.

Over 14 Hours Trans-Atlantic Flight:
The purest hydrosols and essential oils seem to bring the most comfort to long flights. Lack of air, lack of sleep, H1N1 and dry skin can all be made a little less terrible with some good lavender oil, tea tree oil, and pure rosewater or orange flower hydrosol.

Frequent visits to the hospital to take care of a family member whose life is in danger:
Well, life really is full of lemons sometimes. And in such a situation, anything too strong will probably not be appropriate to wear at the hospital. So I would stick to exactly that – but in a body lotion form. J.R. Watkins Lemon Cream was just perfect for that nightmare-ish summer visits at the hospital. If it wasn’t for the fact that it’s disappeared from from the shelves of the local drugstores I would easily continue to enjoy it even now. Applying the cream after shower provides just the right balance between lemony freshness and comforting vanilla and shea butter.

A cup of tea wouldn’t hurt either, and what better choice than Chartreuse Eau de Vie with its soothing chamomile, tarragon and osmanthus flowers? And finally, daily morning trips to the local bakery ensure that you get your doze of sanity (and something for breakfast), just by walking there and smelling the freshly baked bread and wood fire…

Paralyzing Back Injuries:
Anything with angelica, and better yet – Dong Quai (Angelica sinensis). A few years ago I could enver believe I would like anything with it. Now the scent of this, especially in my TCM’s is the most reassuring scent in the world. You know you’re going to come out of there feeling ten times better, and with packets of bitter powdered herbs that will make you wish you never had taste buds, but will also make you feel better.

In fact, I’m loving angelica so much now that I have created a new amber base which I call “Angelic Amber” to be worn alone or as base for my new dark osmanthus-rose Chypre.

Attending a family dinner party where you know you’re not welcome by the racist hosts: Eau d’Hermes. It has enough sunshine and cumin in it to make me feel at home (in my own skin at least) and proud of my Middle Eastern heritage and my own family values. No one could take that away from me.

Really nasty breakups that makes you not want to eat anything:
Un Crime Exotique, with its stark likeness to a curvy poached-pear in star-anise infused almond tart. There is enough softness in that flask to make even Chinese water torture seem amusing. Besides, with this kind of dessert, I’d skip a meal anytime.

Good tea to go with it: Milky oolong.

Getting fired:
Being self-employed it's hardly unlikely I'll run into that situation, but if I did, I would have to make sure I have with me one of those travel size sprays of Vetiver Tonka: some would go towards releasing any anger by macing the bearer of the bad news (how civilized), and the rest would go on my wrists and sweater, with this cereal-like rendition of caramelized vetiver. Nothing could be more soothing, grounding and centering than vetiver, and those sweet surrounding notes make it even better. Only downside: it would be hard to replace it unless a new job is found, and fast.

Spring Allergies:
An experience that is completely new to me (started last year). Sève Exquise provides a non-floral counterpoint between sneezing sessions!

Do you go "sans-parfum" or wear comforting scents when uncomfortable situations happen in your life? If so, what are your comfort scents?
Comment below with your and enter the giveaway of two cute and comforting miniatures: Immortelle l'Amour, and L de Lolita Lempicka.


Visit the following blogs for other ideas for comforting scents:

Roxana's Illuminated Journal

BitterGrace Notes

Perfume Shrine

Notes from the Ledge

Scent Hive

The Non Blonde

Perfume in Progress

Katie Puckrik Smells

A Rose Beyond the Thames

I Smell Therefore I Am

Olfactarama

All I Am A Redhead

Savvy Thinker

P.s. This article's title is an homage to Michelyn Camen's original article of this same name on Sniffapalooza Magazine in 2008, in which I was interviewed to comment on what botanical elements make some of my perfumes comforting. Michelyn Camen is the Publisher and Editor in Chief of www.cafleurebon.com and the Editor-at- Large for www.Fashiontribes.com.

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Friday, January 22, 2010

Save Bloedel Floral Conservatory


Plumeria (Frangipani), originally uploaded by Ayala Moriel.

"It was one of those indecisive April days, alternating between cloudy and warm, and pouring rain. For a while, we sought refuge inside the glass dome that housed tropical birds & flowers. There, near the pink parrot that refused to have his pictures taken, I met a blooming frangipanni tree in Vancouver for the first time. You can imagine my happiness: frangipanni is one of my favourite flowers and I have many fond memories associated with its scent. I took with me this single blooming flower that fell off the tree, and savoured it for hours afterward, analyzing its aroma in my head, making notes in my journal as to how to capture its scent. The result is Frangipanni Gloves: a perfume that layers a whiff of frangipanni flowers with the leathery-powdery undertones of suede perfumed gloves of Victorian era. This tropical white floral perfume has an intoxicating yet delicate aroma, sweet and humid, underlined with suede-leather nuances and a hint of spice". (read the rest of the story behind Frangipanni Gloves here)

Proceeds go to the Bloedel Floral Conservatory in Queen Elizabeth Park in Vancouver. It is thanks to this wonderful tropical gem at the heart of our raincity that I was able to find a real, living frangipanni flower for reference. Unfortunately, the City of Vancouver has cut its funding to sustain the conservatory and it is scheduled to close March 1st, 2010. This will leave tens of tropical birds and plants homeless, and is a huge loss for the people of Vancouver!

When you purchase Frangipanni Gloves, you are also helping this cause. Frangipannin Gloves is offered for a limited time only, until March 1st, which is the scheduled date for closing Bloedel Floral Conservatory. For every bottle sold, $50 is donated to Bloedel Floral Conservatory in order to prevent its scheduled shut-down March 1st, 2010. ($30 for mini bottles).
If the fundraiser succeeds, and it will not close - Frangiapnni Gloves will remain in our regular collection and I will continue to donate money to Bloedel, so that we can continue to enjoy the scent of real living frangipanni flowers!
It can be purchased on Etsy or via Ayala Moriel Parfums.

Other ways you can help the Bloedel Floral Conservatory:

There are three ways to donate:

1. Make a donation at any Royal Bank of Canada branch by quoting our name "Friends of the Bloedel Association" and account number 06080 003 1006428.

2. Mail a cheque payable to the Friends of the Bloedel Association

mail to: Friends of the Bloedel Association
3948 West 23rd Avenue
Vancouver, BC
V6S 1L2

3. Use our secure PayPal FundRazr page on Facebook by clicking here: http://bit.ly/6GsZWt. If you are a member of Facebook, please publish your comment and donation to your stream. This will help us spread the word about our important cause.


Attend the Rumble in the Jungle Gala, January 30th, 2010

Sign this petition

Join Friends of Bloedel

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Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Best of 2009


Oh, what a year! It was definitely a good year for perfumery, with many new perfumes that are worth writing about. 2009 was also an overwhelmingly busy year for me in every possible way - both professionally and personally. A lot of work, a lot of travel and a lot of change. I can't say that I had a chance to test even a minuscule amount of the many fragrances that came out this year. The opposite problem from last year, when I had to scrape the bottom of my memory to put together a list...

Favourite New Perfume:
Si Lolita. I enjoy every sweet pea and spice moment it has to offer. I think I will be running out of this one about as fast as I did with L from the same house. The elemi note in here is so wonderful!

Funnest packaging:
Si Lolita. Excuse my repetition but it’s true. The bottle is whimsical,


Best Sequel of the Year:

I was intentionally ignoring those, so no comments this year. I find it disconcerting that the Harajuku Lovers Snow Bunnies smell the same but have different outfits. I think that’s outrageous.

The Classic Discovery of the Year:
Eau d’Hermes. With its sultry, slightly salty culinary cumin and lemon on top of immortelle and jasmine this scent refreshingly unique and timeless.


Favourite New Niche Perfume of the Year:
Emotionelle by Michel Roudnitska, has a gorgeous melon or rather cantaloupe note paired with sultry jasmine and sensual violets. It’s hard to believe these will get along, but they sure do. And the result is magical, a little disturbing, like striking the right chord in the right time. It reminds me of the warm sun settling in the west after a hot spring day in Southern France.


I also really enjoyed Champaca Absolute, even though I find it a tad too artificial to my taste. But it certainly made 2009 more bright and cheerful.

And than of course there’s also Manoumalia, which won my heart long ago when the year has just began…

Note of the year:
Cantaloupe. It keeps attacking me from every possible direction, and every time I fall in love with it again. I’m yet to post a full blog about it and why this all happened, but it has a lot to do with my visit to Grasse in May.
The other note I paid more attention to this year which I also work with is tobacco. I love it and am glad to find more layers to it than I have before – both when formulating with it and when experiencing it in perfumes. I enjoyed a few tobacco scents this year - Gabriel's Aunt Bohem candle, Tabac Aurea by Sonoma Scent Studio and Field Notes from Paris by Ineke.


The Surprise of the Year:
Hermèssence Vanille Galante. Who would have thought that a scent with such a name will smell like lilies, cantaloupe and salted caramel?! I thoroughly love it.

The Re-Discovery of the Year:
I absolutely love Bois des Iles. I worn it a lot this year, and it is more versatile than I imagined.

This Year's Change-of-Heart:
Clary sage. I used to not be able to stand this note and now, after shaking hands with it in person in Grasse, France I noticed its similarity to bergamot and tea, I am truly enjoying smelling it on its own and working it into some of my compositions.


Ambivalent Entries:
This year there are a few new scents I can't decide how I feel about - I swing from loving them to feeling ambivalent or disappointed.

Sweet Lime & Cedar Smells either exotically fresh and invigorating with the kaffir lime, coconut and cedar; or too artificial, tame and Westernized with the gardenia and musk taking over, as if shutting the kaffir lime notes so they don't get too weird.

Private Collection Jasmine White Moss first smelled amazing, like an old classic expansive fresh-chypre; but than smelled too flat and synthetic. A few more wearing will seal my final verdict.

A Scent by Issey Miyake is a little odd, and has something special about it. It is how I would imagine a tea garden to smell at the top of a mountain. But than it also smells quite sharp, too sharp; or other times it feels too floral and perfumey... I still can't decide if I like it or not. And I feel the same way about the bottle - it's clean-cut but also a little too cold and crude.

Celebrity Fragrance Release:
I was conveniently ignoring those most of the year. But I did enjoy Sarah Jessica Parker’s Twilight. An ambery floral, with an incense and frangipani feel to it. It’s warm and diffusive and a little too synthetic to my taste. Yet I wish it was launched on its own to get more attention rather than along with those two generic meh scents it was surrounded with (and probably were a lot more popular too).

Favourite New Natural Perfume:
Scent Systems’ Oeillet was launched in 2006. But I didn’t try it till this year, so to me it’s completely new. I’m mentnioning it here because I think it’s one of the most stunning natural perfumes that can be found in the world today. Dusky, salty and sensuous in a surprising way and nothing like what you’d expect from a scent that has the name carnation all over it.

I also quite enjoyed Demeter's Vintage Naturals, even though none was extremely surprising or original they were all well-done. My picks would be Vintage Naturals Mimosa, which is more of a white floral; and Vintage Naturals Geranium.

Favourite New Perfume for Men:
Field Notes from Paris by Ineke, although it is just as gorgeous on a woman (I love wearing it myself) is the best new scent that men can enjoy from this year releases.

The Ugly Duckling of the Year:
Cannabis Rose by Fresh. It's not as pretty as its sisters from the same genre (Narciso Rodriguez for Her or Lovely), but it has an edge to it. It's interesting and it's more patchouli than rose.

The Disappointment(s) of the Year:
Coming back from Paris only to discover that my Sous la Vent bottle cracked… Thankfully, I was able to save the jus.

As far as perfume releases go, I was disappointed of
Narcisso Rodriguez’ Essence, which comes in a disturbingly intriguing bottle but smells like an old aldehydic fragrance that was stuck on the shelves for too long.

Also, Nuit de Cellophane turned out to smell like shampoo, rather than osmanthus. But my Japanese friends told me that osmanthus in bloom smells kind-of artificial actually… Yet in a most beautiful way. I am yet to discover this for myself.

Favourite Scented Body Product:
J.R. Watkins Lemon Cream smells like lemon wafers and is rich and smooth yet fast absorbing. The shea butter gives it a heavenly quality. And did I mention that the scent is just to die for?
I’m also still smitten with the summery Terracotta Eau Sous La Vent
And last but not least - Velvet & Sweetpea's Tuberose & Gardenia Whipped Body Frosting, hand-whipped by Laurie Stern herself.

Best Organic Skin-Care Line:
New Zealand based Carol Priest creates hand-made organic skin care that has the right consistency, texture and scent. I’m particularly enamoured with a few of them. The lavender and active manuka honey facial cleanser leaves the skin soft and seems to melt away make up residues. The rosehip and vitamin E regenerative night cream is rich but easily absorbed into the skin and although it does not seem to have an impressive scent from the jar, it turns into a wonderful Melissa (lemon balm) scent once applied to the face, which helps me fall asleep… The jasmine floral tonic water spray is cheerfully refreshing, and the marshmallow root day cream
which smells beautifully of jasmine as well. The line is free of parabens and synthetic chemicals, and mostly seems to be scented with pure essential oils only (I’m a little confused about a couple of the products which indicate “fragrance” as an ingredient – the rose body lotion is one example).

Favourite Scented Candle:

I’m partial to my own candle line (Bois d’Hiver in the winter time and ArbitRary in the summer time). This year, Gabriel’s Aunt Lemon Bar by Gabriel’s Aunt (who also hand-pours my own candles) captured my attention and satisfied my eternal craving for buttery lemon wafers (here we go again!).


Promising new line:
Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Scents I wish I tried but haven’t yet:
Two new agarwood fragrances: Aoud Leather by Montale and Soivohle’s all-natural Oudh Lacquer (and a few others by Liz Zorn). The list goes on with Ormonde Jayne's Tiare and Andy Tauer's Un Rose Chyprée.

Most Fabulous Fragrant Moment this Year:

Sitting among the roses awaiting distillation in the rose fields' extraction plant in Grasse, France.

Most worn this year:

Bois des Iles
Le Parfum de Therese
Si Lolita
Un Jardin Apres la Mousson
Aveda Key Element Fire No. 3
And my own Hanami and Les Nuages de Joie Jaune in the spring, and Espionage and Ayalitta in the fall.

Read the best of the best for 2009 lists of other participating blogs:

Perfume Shrine

Mossy Loomings

1000fragrances

Bittergrace Notes

Shoes,cake,perfume

Scent Hive

Eiderdown Press Journal

Olfactarama

Roxana’s Illuminated Journal

A Rose Beyond the Thames

The Non Blonde

Notes from the Ledge

Under the Cupola

All I am a Redhead

Perfume In Progress

Savvy Thinker

I Smell Therefore I Am

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Friday, October 16, 2009

Falling In Love - Scents And Treats For Fall

Fall is time of change, odysseys and internal journeys. Perfumes for fall must be either warm or innovative.

Bois des Îles goes well with wine tasting and September Song.



Mitsouko
sums up the season's introspective, melancholy mood, and with the violin in Strauss' Beim Schlafengehen (poem by Herman Hesse) it's pure perfection.



Just like a cup of good chai, Tea for Two is the perfect accompaniment for a journey in far away land, or just to keep my ears warm on the windy seawall at English Bay. It also goes well with a pumpkin pie and a romantic afternoon tea...



And speaking of pies, my favourite apple pie is served a-la-mod, with a generous scoop of the vanilla and sprinkled with cinnamon as in L de Lolita Lempicka. Also a good antidote for the mood of the song below...



Warm spices and an autumn sun call for a splash of Eau d'Hermes. With its expansive notes of lemon, cumin and immortelle it feels like sunshine on the skin.



Apples and the harvest season makes me think of the weekly equestrian adventures with my daughter. The horses love fresh apples more than any treat. For those beautiful autumn days in Southlands, Tabac Blond smells like the tack with a bit of raw animalics underneath. Best paired with the scents of horse maneur, cedar chips and the scorched horse hoofs as the farrier puts new horseshoes on.


If saffron robes can inspire spiritual growth, than perhaps the spice would too. Saffron perfume by Artemisia is my favourite from the line. If it won't open your third eye at least it will make you smell beautiful.



The pleasure of raking the leaves or crushing them with my sneakers when walking on the fall-leaf-cluttered sidewalks in the West End intensifies when wearing the now defunct Yohji by Yohji Yamamoto.



Burning leaves brings me to incense: the most gorgeous incense for the season must be pure Amber (Labdanum) botanical incense wands. Labdanum resin has a sweetness not unlike that of the fermenting autumn leaves at this time of year. The package I received from my aunt has only 3 wands left, and I was never able to find it anywhere online. Your help in locating more of this incense is much appreciated.



And speaking of burning and fermentation: what can be sweater than smelling some pipe tobacco while the other fall scents are around? If you don't have a pipe (or cigar) smoking neighbour, a dab or Vetiver Tonka or Tobacco Vanille might do the trick.



Tricking ghosts into your haunted house might become just a tad easier a task with a mist of the Gothic-church perfume Avignon. It smells as realistic as a church incense perfume could ever hope: smoky, raspy, and full of frankincense.



Thank you for Helg of Perfume Shrine for initiating this fall project for 2009 and for Gaia of The Non Blond for contributing the title and image. The other participating blogs are:
Ars Aromatica
I smell therefore I am
Mais que perfume
Mossy Loomings
Notes from the Ledge
Olfactarama
Perfume Shrine
Savvy Thinker
Tea Sympathy and Perfume
The Non Blonde
Under the Cupola

Photo credit: "Autumn in Sepia" by Rick Lundh (via gallery.photo.net)


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Friday, July 17, 2009

Ultimate Summer Wardrobe - Scents for Every Occasion


This midsummer, I’ve invited a few others of my favourite bloggers to list their favourite summer scents. What started as a simple “top 10” list (we bloggers all love those for some reason, as redundant as they may seem to some of our readers – or not) – turned into a summer guide to what to wear, when and why for nearly every possible summer scenario we could think about. I want to thank all the participating bloggers for being such great pals and joining me on this last-minute blogging project; and for coming up with so many cool ideas for different summer scenarios that requires a matching scent. Special thanks to Gaia for finding this quirky summer photo and for Elena for adding the tagline on the image (I still need to figure out how to do stuff like that on Photoshop – I only know very few tricks there!).

So here we go, scents for (nearly) every possible summer occasion, at least the ones I could think of with a lot of help from my perfume blogger friends. And I would like to hear what you think is missing from the list or what you'd chose for your summer wardrobe. I will have a draw between the readers to win 2 miniature bottles of Jo Malone's Grapefruit Cologne and Lavender Cologne.

A Day at the Theme Park or Fair
I though this would be my toughest scenario to find a match for. But it was the easiest: Sugar by Fresh = cotton candy and lemonade. Just add some butterflies as you scream your way on the rollercoaster and you’re good to go.

Summer Night in the Big City
I’ve only been in three big cities during the summer: London, Montreal and New York. The first I was too young to wear any perfume, plus it rained so much it did not feel like summer). Montreal is mostly remembered for the jazz. And the latter was your expected humid, suffocating polluted summer days and one of my main purposes in the trip was perfume shopping. One evening I ended up with my newly acquired Chinatown. A grave mistake as this is better in cooler weather. But from than on I will always remember Chinatown as my New York City perfume (I bet that would make Bond No. 9 happy). If I were to choose my own way now, I would go with something more personal and close to the skin, something to call my own and identify myself in the big crowds. And in a more quite, less obtrusive way than how Chinatown does it. For the sake of picking one scent I chose Magazine Street by Strange Invisible Perfumes. It starts with a lovely white magnolia note and a sharp contrast of vetiver and develops into a musky skin scent, woody, a tad smoky, and very distinct.

International Travel / Jet-Setting
This is a tough one. When I travel I don’t like wearing much, and what I usually do “wear” is those little towelettes soaked in some typical eau de cologne. For long flights that’s usually as much as I can tolerate. Or I would sometimes stop at Hermes and put some Eau d’Orange Verte. Such scents help me feel refreshed and a little bit cleaner than I probably am being stuck in a cabin for long hours (most of my flights are to Israel, so we’re looking at least at 14 hours inside the plane). I like airplanes so little that I don’t really want to associate anything with my actual flight. But last time on my trip back from France, on the London-Vancouver flight, I stopped at Chanel before I got on the plane and doused myself with Sycomore. It turned out to be an excellent choice. It’s a scent I already love (so no fear of associating it with airplanes) and there must have been something really grounding and comforting in the vetiver with hints of mastic resin.

Going Sailing
Deseo, with its equal measure of trashy coconut and synthetic fruit and clean-cut modernized so-called “chypre” - it reads more like a fougere to me. It has a hint of that watery-musky base that so many aquatic masculine fougeres have (Cool Water and the like) but at the same time feels warm and confident. Deseo is like a beach scent with balls, and would be my choice for a little wild ride on a motorboat in English Bay.
P.s. I’m such a show-off, you should know that it would be my brother actually riding the boat, and I will be begging him to tone down the speed ;-)

Drive-In Theatre
Not that I’ve ever been to one (yet) so I can only imagine this based on what I’ve seen in all those 50’s movies. I can’t imagine myself wanting to wear a 50’s style scent (read: aldehydic floral) in the summer. So instead I am going for a scent that my brother described as smelling like the interior of a taxicab, and by that I mean pretty much the entire “Vanille” collection from Comptoir Sud Pacifique. Their Coco-Vanille is particularly realistic, as it smells exactly like those little coconut-scented paper trees that are so commonly popular with taxi drivers in Israel. If you want something more wearable, go for Vanille-Abricot or Vanille Pineapple.

Summer Siesta
There’s nothing sweeter than taking a little nap to make that hot afternoon pass faster, and skip straight into sunset. And even better – a nap taken on a hammock in the garden. To me, Sweet Lime and Cedar smells like this siesta: a combination of the jasmines climbing on the pole where the hammock is tied up to, remains of a watermelon eaten on the grass, and of course the fibers of the hammock releasing their scent even more in reaction to the salt from one’s sweaty back...

The Farmer's Market
Philosykos, because green figs is the only thing that will never show up in a Farmer’s Market in Vancouver and I miss them so much!

Summer Garden Scent
Of all perfumes, the one I chose to wear when tending to my summer garden (all pots and planters, mind you – I’m still on the waitlist for the community gardens!) is Chrysalis by Soivhole’. It has a dominant note of marigold (FYI: any amount of marigold is dominant and this one is beautifully done without being too much), and marigold to me read summer! Other notes include Absinthe, cognac, fig and organic butter tincture, jasmine, orange blossom and carnation.

Beach scent
Yes, this subject is very original, I know, but definitely necessary whenever summer is in question!

My all-time favourite remains Azuree de Soleil Body Oil (it’s now called Bronze Goddess but I’m still finishing up my second bottle of the original name). Its mix of vetiver, incense, gardenia and honey resembles a sun warmed skin and it’s not as clichéd as so many other beachy scents. I love it on its own but it also layers beautifully with other scents (meaning: you can wear another scent on your pulse points and they really complement each other). My favourite pairings are Songes and Chinatown.

Rainy Beach Day Scent
But for the sake of changing things around a bit, I have two more scents for the occasion - which is all the more appropriate because it’s the single summer activity I take part of no matter what. You’ll rarely NOT find me on the beach during the summer! I even go jogging on the beach when it rains (that goes for every season though…).

And on a day when it rains and all you can do on the beach is build sand castles or jog along the seawall, there’s nothing better than Turtle Vetiver, which smells like playing in wet sand.

Poolside Scent
Terra Cotta Eau de Sous le Vent is again not really a perfume but technically a tan-enhancing body spray. It also smells wonderfully of gardenia and sun-warmed skin, perhaps with hints of coconut and suntan lotion. I first worn it on a balmy May night at Cannes beach by the Cinema de la Plage, and hope this is the memory that’s going to stick with me. There is more gardenia than sun warmed skin or sand, which is why I’ve picked it as a poolside scent rather than for the beach. It lacks that “dirty” side of sand and salt and oiled skin so I think it will be more appropriate for the sterile fun environment of a pool party.

Bar-B-Q
If there is one thing I could do without during the summertime is Bar BQ. Being a vegetarian and a perfumer there is not much for me in it: I can’t eat the food. Even the vegetables and fake meats will most likely be covered with meat juices, and I could never see the point of scorching vegetables anyway. Must be something that works wonderfully with meat… And besides, the smoke and the smell are horrific to me. I know I am a minority but whenever my neighbours downstairs Bar BQ (which is pretty much every other day of the week and even more so during the summer) I just want to run away…
So what to wear in that situation? Tough question, because all I try to do than is avoid the smell… Perhaps Giacobetti’s ingenious Tea for Two (l’Artisan Parfumeur), where the smokiness can be mistaken for a cup of fragrant lapsang suchong masked with brown sugar and steamed milk.

The Chinese Night Market
Every year in the summer, for three nights people from all across the Lower Mainland defy the notion of guaranteed bad parking conditions and swarm the Chinese Night Market in search for bargains and Asian street food that can be found nearly nowhere else in town. For such a night I suggest wearing a sheer playful floral, and my choice is Pure Poison. There’s nothing serious about it and the combination of orange blossom and heady tuberose over incense and musk is universally sexy and goes well with sweet crepes, fruity bubble teas and deep fried ice cream. If you are planning on having a green papaya salad, reach for Sweet Lime & Cedar instead.

Best Fruit Salad Scent
Fruit salad scents have been all the rage for over a decade now starting somewhere in the mid 90’s innocently enough with aquatic florals such as Acqua di Gio, Light Blue and so on. Unfortunately, once the aquatic floral craze died out with stayed with fruit salads, compotes and syrups till this very day, which took over most designer and celebrity fragrance releases for women. Only now we finally get to see the end of it (I hope) with some more interesting takes on the subject. Un Jardin Apres la Mousson is a prime example; where juicy cantaloupe is juxtaposed with vetiver, pepper, ginger and coriander, resulting in a fragrance that is wearable, transparent and intriguing despite its simplistic composition.

Summer Meditation
With so many things happening in the summer, and the unlikelihood of saying “no” to all these attractive choices, one could end up exhausted and in much need for introspective down time or meditation. Than I like to burn Buddhist sandalwood incense or fine Japanese incense sticks under my Star Jasmine bush and just sit back and relax on my porch… For such times, there is no better incense summer scent than Kyoto, with its hinoki, musk and mastic notes it is deceivingly light but really quite haunting.

Read on what other excellent perfume blogs have to say about scents for every occasion in summer:


Legerdenez

The Non Blonde

I Smell Therefore I Am (Abigail's List)

I Smell Therefore I Am (Brian's List)

+ Q Perfume Blog

Scent Hive

Savvy Thinker

Moving and Shaking

Bittergrace Notes

Perfume Shrine

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Friday, May 08, 2009

Mothers, Children and the Scents that Bond Us


family love, originally uploaded by janchan.

family love, originally uploaded by janchan.

In my mind, motherhood smells of breast milk and boiling diaper laundry. Both quite delicate yet very distinct. Whenever my mom had a new baby (and like most of the women in the village - she’s done it quite often), these scents immediately took over the entire home and created a certain magical atmosphere that lingered as long as the baby was breast-fed and hasn’t started crawling yet.

And than, of course, a baby’s crown, quickly covered with unsightly yellow crust that emanates a golden glow of a lost cherub. I won’t bore you with theories about how mothers and children bond through the scent of mother’s milk and baby’s head respectively; none really explain why a baby’s smell is so inexplicably sweet and intoxicating. Babies take over a room with their perfume yet the needn’t apologize ever for their olfactory occupation. They smell incredibly sweet even to strangers, but magically perfect to their mothers and relatives.

I chose the photo above to illustrate this blog entry because I truly identify with that family. Whenever my mom had a baby, I felt I have experienced motherhood quite intensely through her own struggles and little joys. I helped her with nearly everything – calming my little brothers down , watching them play and play with them, sing them lullabies and what not. So when I had my own daughter I was quite experienced. And although I didn’t need to boil the soiled diapers in gigantic caldron with olive-oil soap-flakes, my home filled with the lovely baby’s smell.

Added to the mix of breast milk and baby crown were the seasonal fruit of early fall – guavas, the first tangerines, and milky custard fruit that my mom spoiled me with when I was just beginning to breast feed (a spontaneous tradition developed in my village that new mothers get fed by the other women for between 2 weeks to a month – every day someone brings something, to help the new family get used to the new life and responsibility). Whenever I smell a guava I immediately think of that time of my life. And it’s not exactly surprising that my daughter loves guava juice (the fruit she hasn’t had much luck getting acquainted with – it doesn’t travel well and she was very suspicious when I tried to offer it to her). There are other fruits that bond us – melons, which were the only thing I could eat in my first couple of weeks of pregnancy (aside from strawberries and bananas). It’s interesting to see how those random preferences make their mark on a child’s future taste in food. We also both love coconut tremendously (something she certainly did not get from her father!).

As a memoir for this time of my life of new motherhood, I have created my daughter’s namesake perfume (you can read more about it here) and it was influenced by the time of the year when Tamya was born, the flowers that bloomed and the ripe autumn fruit.

I will never forget the first time that my daughter indicated recognition of an aroma. She was eating a candy necklace and suddenly claimed “banana”. I was so happily surprised to find that the yellow ones did indeed taste and smell like “bananas” (or the caricature of bananas as it’s portrayed to us by the flavour industry). It was an indication that she can categorize smells and that was such an exciting moment!

When she was little, I made her a little blend for relaxation and named it “Petit Parfum”. The scent of lavender, lemon, rosewood, sandalwood, agarwood and neroli put together was balancing and calming and she used to apply it to her wrist by herself before bed time.

Although I’m sure her strengths and source of pleasure is first and foremost music and the computer - it’s fun to have a daughter who is patient enough to go “perfume sniffing” and help me out with labeling the packages for shipping. She can recognize a bottle of perfume even if it looks very unusual.

Now that my daughter is growing and becoming more and more independent, the new notes that sing in our lives come and go. We have other common interests (besides food preferences). Three years ago, Tamya started therapeutic horseback riding at Southlands. This magical neighbourhood does not feel as if it belongs to Vancouver at all – but it does. The stables reek of all sorts of smells – tack leather, hay stacks, stinky boots and helmets, horse maneur, the intense aroma of fresh truckload of cedarwood chips and the unbearable stench of burnt nails when the farrier comes for a visit.

Visit other perfume-blogging-mothers Elena's Perfume Shrine, Trish's Scent Hive and Roxana's Illuminated Journal for their insightful entries on the subject.

Happy mother's day!

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