Thursday, November 25, 2010

Immortal Rose

Immortelle, originally uploaded by Églantine.

Immortal Rose is a new one of a kind perfume that I've just added to the website yesterday afternoon. It's a beautiful and unusual combination between two very bold notes: immortelle absolute and rose geranium absolute.
How this perfume came about is interesting: when I was working on my Immortelle l'Amour back in 2007, I asked for feedback from one of my long time customers, and a fellow perfumista who's known to many of you as FiveoaksBouquet on Perfume of Life forum.
The reason why FiveoaksBouquet was the perfect person to ask opinion about was because she loves immortelle so much, and is a huge fan of Annick Goutal's Sables, which she kindly sent me a sample of, since it is no available in Vancouver. She even sent me a handful of beautiful immortelle potpourri made over 20 years ago by Caswell-Massey.
One of her suggestions was to add rose to my 1st mod, and so I did. Neither of us was too smitted with the result, and 4 mods later, the Immortelle l'Amour that you all learned to known and love is non other than the very first mod that I created...
However, the idea of immortelle and rose note appeals to me, and 3 years later, when I have at my disposal a bold and beautiful geranium absolute, I decided to play with this perfume again. I feel that the rose geranium (both oil and absolute), in addition to some rose absolute creates the desired effect that I was hoping to find originally. Gernaium has the "rosier than rose" quality, and although it's not as fine and complex as rose absolute, it is exactly that quality that makes it so suitable for the dark, dusky and earthy maple tonalities of immortelle absolute.
I have decided to offer this perfume as a one of a kind perfume because I think it takes a very unique personality to pull such a perfume off. It is very sweet, with an overdose of vanilla like my original formula; yet earthy and rosy as well, with fresh notes from the geranium and orange that balance it well. And 3 years in it is also beautifully matured into a very smooth elixir.

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At November 25, 2010 9:13 AM, Anonymous cheiroso said...

Thanks for sharing this story with us. I've often wondered about the perfume creation process, and would be glad to hear more of your stories in the future. Not familiar with immortelle, but I know what you mean about geranium being "rosier than rose" and earthy. I personally love Bois 1920's "1920 Extreme" perfume, which features geranium prominently.

At November 25, 2010 9:29 AM, Blogger Ayala Moriel said...

cheiroso, thanks for your comment!
I'm glad you like this kind of posts... I have quite a few (usually with the tag "journal") to describe what I'm doing in the lab or follow on the process of creating a specific perfume. My latest series was about Orcas perfume, which also features rose geranium :-)
Geranium is to intensely tenacious. It's underappreciated in perfumery because the rose is considered so superiour to it. I love it though!

Haven't tried "1920 Extreme" but I did try a few other from that line. Will look for it as I enjoy comparing different perfumes with rose geranium.
BTW - Geranium Pour Monsieur (Editions de Parfums) finally made it to Holt Renfrew, over a year after it was launched... I liked it.


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