Tuesday, August 19, 2008


tuberose, originally uploaded by Buttersweet.

Fracas: An over-the-top white floral; a moon-garden outrageously populated by fragrant night-blooming flowers: honeysuckle vines curling their lashes against the dark skies, pale tuberose skeletons trembling in the summer wind and night blooming jasmines exploding their indoles like fireworks. Cool and warm wafts of winds alternate as one walks through attempting to survive this intoxicating olfactory temptations without falling flat on the ground and becoming fully sedated.

Fracas from French translates straightforwardly to “crash” but more specifically - a noisy, disorderly quarrel, fight or disturbance (which is what could possibly happen if this perfume is applied in abundance by a government employee in Canada). If worn in a different setting, the disturbance is bound to be rather pleasant. There is nothing timid, restrained or shy about Fracas. At the same time, it is not nearly as obtrusive as I have expected after sensing the divided opinion about this fragrance, rivaled only by the opinions regarding Angel and Poison.

On the tuberose intensity-spectrum, Fracas sits just at the point where it leaves a (fondly) memorable impression; go any further you are approaching Poison’s aggressive territory. Tamer tuberoses, on the other hand, always live in danger of paling in comparison to this landmark fragrance.

With every wearing of Fracas, it keeps me on my toes as it bounces between gasoline, white flowers, hot rubber and greenery from the florist shops’ cooler. But it’s intrigue lies not only in its contrasting notes, but also in it’s ability to shift its weight between realism (the real living flowers) and the abstract of modern chemistry (bold molecular statements), while never losing its balance.

In its evolution, Fracas starts out as an intense heady floral, yet with depth rather than being high pitched. It was described before me as “sparkling” and I can’t agree with this description more - it has a certain vivacity that makes it seem very light hearted, almost humorous. You could say it’s Narcisse Noir’s blond sister or the glamorous Norma Desmond when silent films were still in production (both perfumes share the intensity of white florals overtop incense, sandalwood and rubbery animalics, with Narcisse Noir being darker and bordering on the decay).

Tuberose and green cool notes (violet leaf?) are further intensified and sweetened by orange blossom and jasmine absolutes. I also smell something reminiscent of stephanotis there though I’ve never seen it listed anywhere. In the first hour of wearing the various floral notes competing simultaneously for the diva role yet somehow end up singing a polyphonic and harmonious coral and acting as counterpoint to one another (they are all bold, loud white florals so the competition is close). Once settled on the skin, Fracas is linearly floral tuberose with the creamy aspect of the flower taking centre stage. From this point on Fracas slowly but surely dissipates into the atmosphere, shedding one layer after the other of its tuberosiness until in the end we are left with a clean, smooth petal underlined with musk, wood and just the slightest hint of acrid oakmoss.

Top notes: Yellow Mandarin, Bergamot, Honeysuckle, Gardenia
Heart notes: Tuberose, Jasmine, Stephanotis, Lily of the Valley, Jonquil, Violet, Orange Blossom, Iris
Base notes: Musk, Vetiver, Cedar, Sandalwood, Oakmoss

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At August 21, 2008 6:17 PM, Blogger Kathy Bungard said...

I'm totally enamored with Tuberose and I since I read constantly that Fracas is THE tuberose fragrance I had to try a sample and I have to say I was disappointed. It was so weak on me, it didn't come close to the power of Goutal's Gardenia Passion.

Is there anything out there that is as voluptuously ravishing as Goutal's GP?

At August 28, 2008 1:49 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

"Chic chic, une review de Fracas :)"

Wich is your favorite concentration of fracas ?

I recieved an extrait bottle of it, already open. I'm still wondering if my bottle had bad aged. Because I find it a bit "flat".
Luca Turin depicted it like a glow seen afar from a boat.

What I smell is green with a single big white flower vanilic long-lasting note, and that's all.
I ended to understand Turin's comparition in some point of view, because this white note has such a sillage, my nose smell it and get used to it very fast, then I forgive I smell fracas (my nose is not good at perfume subtilities, but I never have headache :p)

It reminds me of the extrait of Samsara (totally different, yes) about the sillage : Samsara's sillage is so big that you don't smell the same thing wether you're in the room, at 1 meter, or at 10cm from the skin.

At August 28, 2008 2:01 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I forgot to add that ,like Flannerygrace, what disturbed me with Fracas, is that the tuberose is not obvious.
Goutal, l'artisan parfumeur, killian, are classic tuberose soliflore. Tuberose is still obvious in heart note of "tubéreuse criminelle", but I don't get it in "Fracas", whereas Fracas is meant to be THE tuberose fragrance.
The only thing I get is one block of white flower, the only clue about tuberose I get in fracas is the "pink candy" aspect.

Maybe I'm too much smelling Tuberose fragrance, so my nose should rest a little. Surely because I wear "tubéreuse criminelle", I loved it when I bought it, now I only mostly get only the "tar" side.

It happened to me the same with "passage d'enfer", I loved it when I bought it, then I didn't smell anything (no encense, no lily), now I can appreciate it anew, but it tood me one month !

I was wondering if perfumers like you have such "fragrance feeling vanishing" : being unable to smell a fragrance anew until your brain learned it ?


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