Wednesday, April 04, 2007

Une Fleur de Cassie

Une Fleur de Cassie by Dominique Ropion has a perfumey, flowery-powdery, indolic and wet presence. It surprises with a counterpoint of contrasting elements that work harmonioiusly despite the fact that some of them are very single-minded and stubborn. Aside from a high concentration of Cassie absolute, the notes I find most dominant in Une Fleur de Cassie are a highly indolic Jasmine accord accented even further to the domain of body odours by essence of cumin. The cumin is subtle yet carnal, which is very contradictory to the cool, green and aloof note of violet leaf echoing the cassie. In addition, orris root contributes a buttery powderiness, which along with the cumin feels warm and sensual. The base is sweetened with vanilla and balanced with the lead-like pencil-shaving note of cedarwood, which invokes the texture of wet green clay, musty and dusty.

Une Fleur de Cassie starts a bit perfumey, though not as much as Mimosaique. It is unmistakably a Cassie perfume. Cassie, also known asAcacia Farnesiana or Sweet Acacia, has an intense note that can be quite objectionable when undiluted or in high concentration. As I said earlier, it is one of the most unusual floral notes because it is a floral base note and provides an interesting floral foundation for other lighter floral notes. It is rarely used in such concentration as in Une Fleur de Cassie, and therefore it is not surprising that it often garners ambivalent or repulsive reactions. However, this is what makes it unique. And particularly when played by this particular ensemble of notes such as the cumin.

According to Basenotes, the notes are:
Top Note: Cassie, Mimosa, Jasmine, Clove, Cumin, Bergamot,
Middle Notes: Rose, Violet, Apricot, Aldehyde, Salicylate,
Base Notes: Musk Ketone, Cedarwood, Sandalwood.

The photo is courtesy of my brother, Yotam Dehan, a Desert Ranger in the Dead Sea area. It is a blue robin on an Acacia tree in the Yehuda Desert near the Dead Sea. You can also view more photos by Yotam on his photolight webpage.

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At April 04, 2007 7:34 AM, Blogger chayaruchama said...

Ayala, the mimosa-mad !

Not that I blame you one whit.
I adore it, too.
What a robin !
Makes my heart throb.

I hope you are enjoying Pesach in the Holy Land...
Wish I were there with you and Tamya.

Kisses and warm hugs to you both-

At April 05, 2007 8:45 AM, Blogger helg said...

What a lovely review!!
This frag is both a technical feat and a love-hate perfume, so kudos to Ropion for doing it. (he does have a penchant for lush and operatic flowers, doesn't he?)

Hugs and happy holidays!

At April 06, 2007 3:37 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Ayala,

Have you tried Aubepine Acacia by Creed ? I was wondering whether the acacia note used in A.Acacia is similar to the one used in Une Fleur de Cassie. To me Aubepine Acacia is a superb very refreshing green floral.


At April 10, 2007 11:56 PM, Blogger Ayala Moriel said...

Chaya Ruchama,
Hope you had a fantastic Pesach yourself as well. But it's so wonderful that it's over too ;)

At April 11, 2007 12:00 AM, Blogger Ayala Moriel said...

I like your reference to Ropion's florals as "operatic" - it definitley applies to Carnal Flower as well, which I like (though haven't worn enough times to review yet).

At April 11, 2007 12:15 AM, Blogger Ayala Moriel said...

I've never heard of Aubepine Acacia, but now I will have to pin it down, as I am very curious about the different interpretations of the mimosa note. Both mimosa and cassie have "green" aspects to them, but the cassie has more of a violet-like as well as indolic notes, and has a very wet presence, while mimosa is much more woody and cucumber like and much, much lighter and airy.

At April 12, 2007 4:28 AM, Blogger Ayala Moriel said...

I will look out for Aubepine Acacia and let you know what I think of it. I don't believe it's available in the store in my area that sells Creed, but I promise that if I happen to test it I will let you know.


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